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Re: RUSTY SEAT - ACID

To: "Mark and Kathy" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: RUSTY SEAT - ACID
From: "David" <dcrawfor@san.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 23 Oct 2005 10:02:24 -0700
Scotty, et al,

Phosporic acid (10% solution) changes the chemical properties of iron
oxide (rust)
to iron phosphate, a material that will not rust. The new surface
should have a white
or light gray appearance - the red rust has been chemically changed.
Wire brush
away any lingering surface materials but don't try to get rid of the
white.  Phosporic
acid stops rust in its tracks.

As Mark said, Good Luck.

David C
'54 BN1


----- Original Message -----
From: Mark and Kathy
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, October 23, 2005 7:21 AM
Subject: Re: RUSTY SEAT - ACID


Scotty ,  What acid wash did you use.   Navel Jelly ?    Por 15
recommends
THEIR phosphoric acid solution and their marine clean prewash if there
is
any oils or lubricants on the metals.    Their phosphoric acid did
start to
neutralize for me as soon as I hit it with some water to wash it off.
Then as soon as it dried to a white finish it was ready for the Por 15
coating.

In reality you can actually put the Por 15 right on the rusted metal
after a
good wire brushing and dusting.  A couple of coats of the black semi
gloss
gave me a rock hard surface.   But you need to keep it out of sun
light
unless you put their "top coat" on it.

The way I read the companies instructions ( and trust me I read them
several
times cause you get different ideas from the instruction sheet as
compared
to the sides of the cans,  pretty confusing really),   was that the
acid
wash is really for smoother , non rusted metal to give it the "etched"
surface that the paint coat needs to bond.  With the rusted surface
the
paint already has an "etched" surface to bond to.

So any way to answer your question,  your on your own using another
companies etching product but if I were you once the pans dry from the
water
wash you should be good to go.   Sounds like the pans will be "good
and
etched" once your ready for the paint coat.

Also with this stuff moisture is not a real problem cause they claim
that it
sets up best in high moisture situations.  Go figure!

Good Luck,  Mark


----- Original Message -----
From: <scott@scottjgraham.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 23, 2005 3:36 AM
Subject: RUSTY SEAT - ACID


>I removed the rust from the rear seat pan for my BJ7 with an acid
type rust
>remover and now want to paint with POR.
>
> However, I notice that the acid seems to still be in the metal.
There is
> a warning on the bottle saying that if there are any "white
crystals" on
> the surface, that there is still acid in the surface and it cannot
be
> painted until it is all removed. After wiping the surface several
times
> with a wet rag as advised, the white coloring continues to appear on
the
> surface. So I am soaking the pan in water overnight to see if this
will
> neutralize the acid.
>
> Is this the best solution? Any other suggestions?
>
>
> Scott Graham
> Green 63 BJ7




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