Ned,
You can test the coil by using an Ohm meter. Connect the ohmmeter to
the primary studs of the coil. Turn the meter to the 0-2M ohm scale for
the primary winding and check reading then remove either one of the
meter leads from the primary stud and connect it to the coil wire lead.
Reset your ohmmeter to the 2M-20M ohm scale and test the secondary
winding for its reading. If the primary or secondary winding readings
do not fall within the range indicated in the service manual or coil
manufacture, replace the coil. A bad condenser on the distributor will
also cause the coil to look foul if using a Mallory unit.
Lucas Sports Coil Primary 3.0 Ohm Secondary 8.8K
Ohm
CB= contact breaker
SW= switch
Don
57' BN4
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ned Smith
Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2006 11:13 AM
To: Austin-Healey List
Subject: The Engine Died
I have been playing with the alternator trying to get the pulleys lined
up
properly so there is no bad noises from the fan belt. The engine started
promptly and ran smoothly. I cut it on and off several times as I made
adjustments to the alternator position. The last time I started the
engine
it ran for 10 sec. and died. Just as though I had turned off the key.
I have learned from previous posts that the BW wire from the battery
switch
can cause this result so I disconnected it from the coil. No joy. It
does
not read to G either.
I printed out the Ignition Test from the shop manual and started down
the
list. I am good until I get to the step to check voltage from G to the
SW
side of the coil. My coil is a Lucus but it has + and - marks instead of
SW
and CB. Anyway I get 11.5v between + and G. Not 12.5 that I get
elsewhere.
The next step looks for voltage between CB and ground. I get .5v between
"-"
and G. I think this means my coil has suddenly gone bad.
If the coil were good, would I get 12v from both terminals and G?
Your help is greatly appreciated,
Ned Smith
BJ8
near Chattanooga, TN
N34.98 W85.5
|