Alex -
Always carry a spare rotor in the car! If yours goes bad you can't
fix it without a spare!
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
On 6/29/06, ZManDino@aol.com <ZManDino@aol.com> wrote:
> Last Saturday I had the same rotor failure that Michael experienced. My wife,
> Helga, and I were on our way from Atascadero Calif. to Stanford to take part
> in the Palo Alto Concours. It's a 200 mile drive and we were only 27 miles
> from home, cruising at 70mph, when suddenly the car began to backfire loudly
>and
> lose power. While pulling off the freeway the engine died. I checked the
> engine for leaks, steam, etc., and all seemed well. I removed the distributor
>cap
> and all seemed normal. I was afraid to turn the engine over for fear the
>timing
> chain had broke or skipped teeth. After being towed home, we continued on to
> the Concours in brand X and commiserated with our car buddies. It was
> suggested that I should check the distributor as the shear pin may have
>snapped.
>
> Home again I removed the distributor cap and tried to move the rotor to see
> if there was resistance. Instead the cap turned freely on the shaft and the
> brass arm fell off. The rivet that holds the arm in place was laying on the
> timing plate. Examining the rotor I could see that the plastic key that stops
> the
> rotor from turning was broken off. I replaced the rotor with a new one and
> the engine started and idled smoothly. After a test drive I figured all was
> well until I read Michael's rotor experience today.
>
> Fearing that there may be distributor wobble, I removed the distributor and
> examined it thoroughly. Everything appears to be normal and operates smoothly.
> All I can figure is that the rotor failed possibly from heat and age. I'm
> embarrassed to admit that I haven't changed the rotor for at least three
>years.
> The rotor was made by Intermotor, part # DRB106, hopefully made in England,
>but
> who knows for sure. It must be a rotor conspiracy. Lesson learned: Always
> change the rotor with the points.
>
> Alex Zanini
> BN7 MK1
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