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RE: Rotor Conspiracy

To: "John Soderling" <jsoderling@astound.net>,
Subject: RE: Rotor Conspiracy
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 13:54:58 -0400
I'm sure we all have bad rotor stories, the aftermarket rotors are
terrible.

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John Soderling
Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2006 11:24 AM
To: Healey List; ZManDino@aol.com
Subject: Rotor Conspiracy

I was working on a friends BN4 six months ago and had just accelerated
the 
engine to about 2,000 rpm when the rotor failed.  The metal contact
piece 
separated from the plastic/bakelite body and the small "drive rivet"
that holds it on fell down and got wedged between the drive shaft and
the 
distributor body, spun the distributor around and ripped out all the
plug 
wires and coil lead.  WHAT A MESS.  Not fun taking the distributor apart
to 
find the rivet and then putting it together again and rewire everything.
Vrooom vrooom,
John
Erika the Red
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <ZManDino@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>; <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 4:03 PM
Subject: Rotor Conspiracy


> Last Saturday I had the same rotor failure that Michael experienced.
My 
> wife,
> Helga, and I were on our way from Atascadero Calif. to Stanford to
take 
> part
> in the Palo Alto Concours. It's a 200 mile drive and we were only 27
miles
> from home, cruising at 70mph, when suddenly the car began to backfire 
> loudly and
> lose power. While pulling off the freeway the engine died. I checked
the
> engine for leaks, steam, etc., and all seemed well. I removed the 
> distributor cap
> and all seemed normal. I was afraid to turn the engine over for fear
the 
> timing
> chain had broke or skipped teeth. After being towed home, we continued
on 
> to
> the Concours in brand X and commiserated with our car buddies. It was
> suggested that I should check the distributor as the shear pin may
have 
> snapped.
>
> Home again I removed the distributor cap and tried to move the rotor
to 
> see
> if there was resistance. Instead the cap turned freely on the shaft
and 
> the
> brass arm fell off. The rivet that holds the arm in place was laying
on 
> the
> timing plate. Examining the rotor I could see that the plastic key
that 
> stops   the
> rotor from turning was broken off. I replaced the rotor with a new one
and
> the engine   started and idled smoothly. After a test drive I figured
all 
> was
> well until I read Michael's rotor experience today.
>
> Fearing that there may be distributor wobble, I removed the
distributor 
> and
> examined it thoroughly. Everything appears to be normal and operates 
> smoothly.
> All I can figure is that the rotor failed possibly from heat and age.
I'm
> embarrassed to admit that I haven't changed the rotor for at least
three 
> years.
> The rotor was made by Intermotor, part # DRB106, hopefully made in 
> England, but
> who knows for sure. It must be a rotor conspiracy. Lesson learned:
Always
> change the rotor with the points.
>
> Alex Zanini
> BN7 MK1




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