Bob and others -
Don't forget to remove the cotter pin from the spindle nut.
- Bernie, 1967 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2006 10:06 PM
To: Frenken, Eric
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: squealing noise from wheel
Eric,
This is not difficult. The hardest part will be getting the dust cover
out. It's a metal cap that interference fits inside the rotor hub. It
has a threaded end, which has probably been buggered-up by a DPO. If
so, you can just pull it out with pliers. If not, and you want to save
them, you can build a tool like I did. I brazed the correct nut (5/16"
fine, I think) on the end of a length of allthread (threaded rod).
Then, screw the nut onto the threaded portion of the dust cap and
pull--I built a bracket from an old set of bicycle training wheels and
used another nut on the allthread to extract the cap.
Remove the brake caliper and wire it up to the shock arms (don't let it
dangle). Check the rotor for end play (pull straight out). There
should be little or none, if there's a lot then you've found your
problem (if it's extremely tight that could be a problem, too).
Then, undo the spindle nut. It's a big nut, probably 1&1/8 or 1&1/4
inch. It should be torqued down tight. Then, gently pull on the rotor
assembly. It should slide off the stub axle.
Examine your bearings and races for signs of wear (checking, blueing,
etc.). Discard if not perfect.
There's been a recent thread about re-installing the bearings and
setting up the shims and space. Check the archives.
Cheers,
bs
Frenken, Eric wrote:
>Alan,
>
>is it a big deal to remove the hub and shim the castle nut? With other
words,
>can it be done by the average home mechanic? What is the right
procedure? Can
>you recommend a piece of literature for that?
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Eric
>www.brits-n-pieces.com
>
>Eric -
>
>Sounds to me like either your bearings are shot or your castle nut on
>the axle is not shimmed properly and is too loose.
>
>Either way you cut it, you need to remove the hub and inspect your
>bearings, and then reassemble and repack if all is well. Be sure the
>castle nut is shimmed properly so that the hub doesn't spin loose like
>it is doing now.
>
>The noise you are hearing is probably from the disc brake contacting
>the calipers or the rear dust plate. When you step on the brake it
>recenters the disc and the squeal goes away.
>
>This is potentially a very costly repair if you don't deal with it
>RIGHT NOW!! Don't drive the car until you fix the squeal.
>
>If that doesn't fix your noise problem, come back to the list, it
>could also be that you are missing anti-squeal shims and your caliper
>pistons are corroded and sticking on... but that is less likely that
>what I've described above.
>
>Regards,
>
>Alan
>
>'53 BN1
>'53 A90
>'64 BJ8
>
>
>
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
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