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Re: [Healeys] hubs .. splines - autotightening

To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>, Curt/Nancy Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] hubs .. splines - autotightening
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 8:34:23 -0400
The biggest problem is that they distort very easily and have to be "remolded" 
to a shape that you can use.  I have also had some small dents show up on my 
spinners.

tom----but I still use the lead hammers.


---- Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote: 

=============
What's the problem with lead hammers?  I've used them (4lb) for years with no 
problems (kind of a waste of lead, though).


Bob



Curt/Nancy Arndt wrote:
> Mirek,
> 
> Cars are judged as they would have come from the factory.  As such there
> would most likely be *minor* marks on the knockoffs when the wheels were put
> on at the factory.  Plus, our Concours standards encourages that the cars be
> driven, and I would be somewhat lenient with minor marks. Anything more
> would most likely result in 1/4 point for each knockoff  (1 point total) for
> condition.
> 
> However, If I was purchasing an Austin Healey new back in the day and the
> knockoffs were beat up a bit I'd most likely ask the dealer for new ones.
> 
> I spent a lot of time welding up my original steel knockoffs on my BN1 and I
> personally won't use the original lead hammer.  I also don't need to tell
> you the trouble and research Roger Moment did to replicate the original
> hammer in the BN1s, of which I have a replica.
> 
> What I prefer is the shot filled rubber hammer (4 pound Pittsburgh brand)
> sold at Harbor Freight.  It works just fine.
> 
> Curt Arndt
> AH Concours Committee
e
> 


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

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