Gary, I think I have a different solution.
I also use an aluminum radiator in my race car that I got form SC
Austin-Healey over 20 years ago. (I think it is the same as the DW radiator) I
have never had to clean it out, and here's why.
When I build a new race motor with a new/old used block - and I have built a
few - I take the block to a stripper. I am not talking about doing just a hot
tank thing as many engine re-builders do. When my block comes back from the
stripper there is not a speck of rust or corrosion or crud in any part of that
block. The water jackets are pristine.
Then, I only use distilled water and Red Line water wetter.
I run 11.5:1 compression ratio. I run 36 degrees advance. I race in 90 +
degree heat at tracks were I hit 130 to 140 MPH on the straights. I shift at
6000 to 6200 RPM at every gear change. During a usual 25 to 30 minute race my
engine temperature never goes over 190 degrees.
In the early years I used blanking plates but for the last 15 years or so I
have used Stant 180 degree thermostats. I have never had a boil over where
coolant went into my overflow tank - ever. I mean never. I use a 7 pound
So what is my point? The usual Healey engine block is probably full of really
bad stuff. On one engine block that I inspected many years ago, I found a
large/heavy wire (also heavily rusted) in the water jackets around the
cylinders. We could only surmise that it was part of the original core
stabilization in the casting process. I think that most overheating problems
are a result of stuff in the block - which then finds it's way into your
radiator. That is why I take every block and have it chemically stripped
before I do a rebuild.
BN7L-466 Vintage Racer
> From: email@example.com
> To: firstname.lastname@example.org
> Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 14:53:22 -0700
> Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator
> I am no expert in thermodynamics. However, in my BN7 race car I replaced my
> stock double-core radiator with an aluminum radiator from Denis Welch.
> temperatures were reduced by 30 degrees. The radiator is also much lighter
> than stock. One note of caution: the aluminum radiator cannot be easily
> out like a steel radiator. Result is that it quickly can get plugged with
> (don't ask how I know). I run an in-line filter on the top water hose, and
> clean out the filter after each race.
> Gary Black
> 1960 BN7
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Suggested annual donation $12.75