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[Healeys] Working on door gaps

Subject: [Healeys] Working on door gaps
From: csooch1 at aol.com (Chris Masucci)
Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2011 20:49:55 -0500
> Hi Folks,
>
> It's been a while since I have posted but I am now getting back to working
on the Healey after a 6 year hiatus.  Had a Son, purchased an older home,
etc.
>
> The car is the same 1966 BJ8 and I am finally to the point of fitting
panels.  The front fender to door gaps are good.  The rear fender to door gaps
have the standard small gap up top and bigger gap at bottom indicative of
frame sagging or damage.  I knew this when I bought the car.  All of the rust
has been cut out and some frame sections capped.  I have removed the
temporarily welded in rear inner body panel for the shut pillar and the rear
seat pan, which needed replacing anyway.  I am now working on straightening
the rear section of the frame.  The car is supported on the front hubs and at
the frame right at the rear outriggers.  I am pressing down on the rear most
part of the frame in the boot with bottle jacks.
>
> I have been able to open the door gaps on both sides so that I have 3/10"
bigger gap up top versus the bottom on both sides.  My question is, do you
think that is enough for me to start tacking in the rest of the inner body
panel and rear frame caps for strength?  I have heard rumors of opening to a
delta of 3/16", welding and, and then when supported by all the wheels it
should sag somewhere close to even gaps.  I had planned on lightly tacking in
the new metal and then jacking the car by the rear axle to see where the gaps
closed, kind of by trial and error.  Wondering if I am at a good starting
point.
>
> Cheers,
> Chris
> BJ8

Sent from my iPhone

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