Well, I didn't realize this topic was going to stir up so much controversy. I
appreciate the comments from Rich, Martin and the others. I have one thing to
say about the Jule frame...if I had an extra $8K laying around, we wouldn't
even be talking about this since I would already own one. That's not the case
though, so I am where I am.
If I can get through to the meaning here it is that the inner body panels
behind the shut pillar and rear seat frame surround all provide some support
for the car. The sills, outriggers, floors and other components that were
rotted have all been replaced years ago when I first started. I think what I
am hearing from Rich is that if I support the car where he suggests, and then
get the gaps right, there shouldn't be any further sag once I weld in the rest
of the pieces. I think that the single biggest contributor to keeping the car
from sagging is the portion of the rear inner body panel that welds to the
sill. It is that part that holds the rear of the car from pushing up, by
imparting that force down onto the sill, which is why when they rot the car
inevitably sags. This is where I am. How much beyond a perfect door gap
should I flex the frame before I weld in the inner body panel repair (from
Kilmartin)? Some say none, others say 3/16". I will tack everything lightly
and try it before I fully weld.
In general the main frame rails are in decent shape as are the bulkheads and
their connections to the frame rails. It really is pretty close all things
considered, and as much as I know it will offend some folks here, this car was
never going to be concours, and that isn't what I want anyway. I have always
been looking for a nice driver, that I can drive every day if I so choose,
without having to worry about a paint chip ruining a $5k paint job.
As to the safety comments from Martin, I am certain that he has only my best
interest at heart and has helped me in the past several times for no financial
gain. Like I said, if I had the money, I would have his chassis.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: Rich Chrysler <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
To: 'Austin Healey' <pajtamuvek at gmail.com>; 'Chris Masucci' <csooch1 at
aol.com>
Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Sep 4, 2011 12:00 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Working on door gaps
Chris,
This job will go a lot better if you first establish your door gaps evenly
y the careful placing of the jack stands on the main chassis rails. Of
ourse make sure these main frame rails, X section, cross members and
utriggers are all in good condition and not twisted, damaged or rotted.
'd suggest the front stands be placed just ahead of the front outriggers,
he rear ones just behind the rear outriggers. Now recheck your door gaps.
cannot over state that the main chassis may still be fine but when the
nner sills, ends of outriggers, even the floors are detached or removed,
hings will flex simply because the Healey IS NOT A FRAME BASED STRUCTURE.
t is a semi-unibody inner structure in which all the components work
ogether as a team to provide the necessary strength. Obviously with some of
he team "absent" the structure becomes less of the structure it is designed
o be.
lease read that last couple of sentences over a couple of times until you
nderstand what I'm saying here. Most folks just don't "get it".
Meanwhile if your chassis rails need "capping" then it's time for a new
hassis.
We import the excellent and exactingly accurate Kilmartin chassis from
ustralia. Then we build the car up on that. It maintains the absolute
ccuracy of detail of the originals with more than sufficient added strength
ue to heavying up the metal on the inside of the members. It's a wonderful
ubstructure on which to build an accurate car.
Rich Chrysler
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