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[Healeys] Working on door gaps

Subject: [Healeys] Working on door gaps
From: pajtamuvek at gmail.com (Austin Healey)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 08:26:27 +0200
References: <487A1736-46F7-4401-A098-713ACE66E382@aol.com>
Hi,

You can cheat some extent, if You lower the front end of the front shroud a
bit and lover the front of the front wings as well.
This will give You a bad gap on the front of the door (big gap on the top,
small on the bottom.
You have to modify the door sopport to raise the goor a bit (easy way adding
a sim under the lower door hinge).  A couple of mms lowering the front can
make huge difference.  With some time and luck, this will cure the problem.

Gergo

2011/9/4 Chris Masucci <csooch1 at aol.com>

> > Hi Folks,
> >
> > It's been a while since I have posted but I am now getting back to
> working
> on the Healey after a 6 year hiatus.  Had a Son, purchased an older home,
> etc.
> >
> > The car is the same 1966 BJ8 and I am finally to the point of fitting
> panels.  The front fender to door gaps are good.  The rear fender to door
> gaps
> have the standard small gap up top and bigger gap at bottom indicative of
> frame sagging or damage.  I knew this when I bought the car.  All of the
> rust
> has been cut out and some frame sections capped.  I have removed the
> temporarily welded in rear inner body panel for the shut pillar and the
> rear
> seat pan, which needed replacing anyway.  I am now working on straightening
> the rear section of the frame.  The car is supported on the front hubs and
> at
> the frame right at the rear outriggers.  I am pressing down on the rear
> most
> part of the frame in the boot with bottle jacks.
> >
> > I have been able to open the door gaps on both sides so that I have 3/10"
> bigger gap up top versus the bottom on both sides.  My question is, do you
> think that is enough for me to start tacking in the rest of the inner body
> panel and rear frame caps for strength?  I have heard rumors of opening to
> a
> delta of 3/16", welding and, and then when supported by all the wheels it
> should sag somewhere close to even gaps.  I had planned on lightly tacking
> in
> the new metal and then jacking the car by the rear axle to see where the
> gaps
> closed, kind of by trial and error.  Wondering if I am at a good starting
> point.
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Chris
> > BJ8
>
> Sent from my iPhone
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