Darin,
Went through hell with my BT7 when I cut out the sills and rear shut
pieces. The doors would not line up with the rear wings. I'd left the
motor and trans in the car, to account for the sag. Didn't matter. After
way too long I realized that cowl had moved (down and a bit forward) when
the siill had been removed (it's located on the lower edge to the sill). I
cut the new sills off, got new ones and by using pipe clamps and a
come-along was able to get everything into alignment *before* re-welding.
It looks like s*"=t down there, but damn the doors line up!
My theory is that the Healey structure is really pretty stiff (never hear
about doors coming open), but they take a real beating (my frame rails are
all dented) and stresses build up which are released when a stressed member
is cut out. Looking at the cowl I didn't think it could have moved.
The Kilmartin sills are nice.
Cheers,
Mike Tobin
On Dec 14, 2013 8:13 PM, "Darin Graber" <dkgraber85@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hello to all -
>
> I am new to the list and am in the process of working my
> way throughout the refurbishment of a '57 100-6 Longbridge in Salt Lake
> City.
> This is a car that I want to retain some of the patina, and I WILL drive a
> lot - I have the factory hard top and my driving season may very well
> extend
> to year-round (dry weather permitting). So this won't be a trailer queen.
> Attention is being paid to the 'typical' body places - doglegs, boot
> floor,
> bottoms of fenders, cockpit floors, etc. Of course, the inner sills and
> outer
> rockers are in need of replacement and are coming up soon. I have some
> questions about the pitfalls of this task - i.e. door opening
> measurements, do
> I need to brace the openings and if so, where, what to look out for, etc.
>
>
> I have researched a lot on line and by reading books and have seen some
> 'restorations' being carried out using various methods and instructions. I
> have seen many pics that the doors just don't look quite right, or the swag
> line doesn't quite line up. My hope is that things will line up well
> enough
> that I can duo-tone the paint. This cars' frame and outriggers are very
> good
> - most of the corrosion has been contained to the outer sheet metal so the
> measurements of the inner sills and their attachment to the frame is not a
> worry (I don't think). I have a data chart with frame measurements. The
> car
> has been to the frame shop and is straight. Again what I am looking for is
> any info regarding this process, known issues, things to look out for, etc.
> I look forward to your comments and dialog. Cheers!
>
> Darin
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
> IMG_1087.jpg]
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
> IMG_1039.JPG]
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbt71@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
|