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--001a11425fb6709ad9052bda3f62
What about chips in the hub paint. Any ideas on matching the black
thickness?
Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
_______ _______
(______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
(_________________________)
BT7 engine and disk brakes
On Mon, Feb 15, 2016 at 6:32 PM, Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hi All
>
> I have to agree with John Spaur and Michael Salter that restoring an
> original wheel is hit and miss at best. It is so difficult that both Roger
> Moment and Don Fisher recast their wheels on the original frames versus
> trying to repair/restore them. Don is not only a dentist but has taught at
> the UCLA dental school for over 50 years, so casting the wheel was not
> difficult for him. The same with Roger whose fabrication skills are second
> to none and his recast wheel was nothing short of brilliant. BTW Roger
> initially repaired his wheel and it cracked again in short order which is
> why he re-cast it.
>
> Also as the trafficator/Bakelite expert I can state the the steering
> wheels were NOT Bakelite but plastic. See attached photos of my restored
> '55 BN1 wheel that never had any cracks whatsoever. I just lightly sanded
> and polished the rim and painted the hub with a high quality epoxy enamel.
>
> Better yet, buy a correct period wooden wheel from Michael Lempert as I
> also have one of his wheels for my car.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Curt Arndt
> Carlsbad, CA
> '55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{)
>
> On Mon, Feb 15, 2016 at 3:27 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> "I would not recommend restoring the original plastic steering wheels when
>> excellent reproductions are available."
>> I would have to concur with John on that. However, if you are looking to
>> restore a very early 100 wheel, either adjustable or non adjustable 17"
>> diameter or a 16 1/2" non adjustable wheel they are unavailable in
>> reproductions so extreme measures are called for!!!
>> The last wheel that I restored using the acetone method, suggested to me
>> by Bob Yule BTW, was on #174 andthe result was good enough to score
>> concours gold at Gettysburg and shows no signs of cracking 3 years after I
>> finished restoring it.
>> I believe that the real problem is that the plastic used to make these
>> wheels originally tends to shrink over time and eventually cracks appear to
>> relieve the resulting tensile stress.
>> In my experience any filler material, other than the original, fails to
>> bond strongly and as a result cracks appear at the material boundaries very
>> quickly.
>>
>> Just sayin'
>>
>> Michael S
>>
>> On Mon, Feb 15, 2016 at 5:03 PM, John Spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I would not recommend restoring the original plastic steering wheels when
>>> excellent reproductions are available.
>>>
>>> The reason the plastic has cracked is because water has penetrated the
>>> wheel
>>> and it has started to oxidize the metal reinforcement which has expanded
>>> and
>>> cracked the wheel. That process may of slowed down, but it will never
>>> stop.
>>>
>>> I stored an original wheel in my garage for several years intending to
>>> restore it. It appeared to be in the same reasonable shape when I went to
>>> inspect it in preparation for restoration. When I pull at parts of it
>>> that
>>> looked to be in good shape, it just crumbled in my hands.
>>>
>>> John Spaur
>>> '62 BT7
>>>
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>>>
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>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.*
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>>
>>
>
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--001a11425fb6709ad9052bda3f62
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"ltr">What about chips in the hub paint. Any ideas on matching t=
he black thickness?</div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br clear=3D"all"><div>=
<div class=3D"gmail_signature"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div =
dir=3D"ltr">Ira Erbs<div>Portland,OR</div><div><span style=3D"font-family:&=
#39;Times New Roman',serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 _______ =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=
=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0_______</span><br style=3D"font-family:'=
Times New Roman',serif"><span style=3D"font-family:'Times New Roman=
',serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0=C2=A0 (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)</span>=
<br style=3D"font-family:'Times New Roman',serif"><span style=3D"fo=
nt-family:'Times New Roman',serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0=C2=
=A0 (_________________________)</span></div><div>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=
=A0 =C2=A0 BT7 engine and disk brakes</div></div></div></div></div></div></=
div>
<br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Mon, Feb 15, 2016 at 6:32 PM, Curtis Arnd=
t <span dir=3D"ltr"><<a href=3D"mailto:cnaarndt@gmail.com"; target=3D"_bl=
ank">cnaarndt@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail=
_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:=
1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div><div><div><div><div><div>Hi All<br><br></di=
v>I have to agree with John Spaur and Michael Salter that restoring an orig=
inal wheel is hit and miss at best.=C2=A0 It is so difficult that both Roge=
r Moment and Don Fisher recast their wheels on the original frames versus t=
rying to repair/restore them.=C2=A0 Don is not only a dentist but has taugh=
t at the UCLA dental school for over 50 years, so casting the wheel was not=
difficult for him.=C2=A0 The same with Roger whose fabrication skills are =
second to none and his recast wheel was nothing short of brilliant.=C2=A0 B=
TW Roger initially repaired his wheel and it cracked again in short order w=
hich is why he re-cast it.<br><br></div>Also as the trafficator/Bakelite ex=
pert I can state the the steering wheels were NOT Bakelite but plastic.=C2=
=A0 See attached photos of my restored '55 BN1 wheel that never had any=
cracks whatsoever.=C2=A0 I just lightly sanded and polished the rim and pa=
inted the hub with a high quality epoxy enamel.<br><br></div>Better yet, bu=
y a correct period wooden wheel from Michael Lempert as I also have one of =
his wheels for my car.<br><br></div>Cheers,<br><br></div>Curt Arndt<br></di=
v>Carlsbad, CA<br></div>'55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{)<br></div><div class=3D=
"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div><div class=3D"h5">On Mon,=
Feb 15, 2016 at 3:27 PM, Michael Salter <span dir=3D"ltr"><<a href=3D"m=
ailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com" target=3D"_blank">michaelsalter@gmail.com</a=
>></span> wrote:<br></div></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=
=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div><di=
v class=3D"h5"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-=
family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small"><span>"I would not re=
commend restoring the original plastic steering wheels when<br>
excellent reproductions are available."<br></span>I would have to conc=
ur with John on that. However, if you are looking to restore a very early 1=
00 wheel, either adjustable or non adjustable=C2=A0 17" diameter or a =
16 1/2" non adjustable wheel they are unavailable in reproductions so =
extreme measures are called for!!!<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" st=
yle=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">The last wheel=
that I restored using the acetone method, suggested to me by Bob Yule BTW,=
was on #174 andthe result was good enough to score concours gold at Gettys=
burg and shows no signs of cracking=C2=A0 3 years after I finished restorin=
g it.<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans=
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">I believe that the real problem is that the=
plastic used to make these wheels originally tends to shrink over time and=
eventually cracks appear to relieve the resulting tensile stress. <br></di=
v><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-seri=
f;font-size:small">In my experience any filler material, other than the ori=
ginal, fails to bond strongly and as a result cracks appear at the material=
boundaries very quickly.<br><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=
=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Just sayin'<b=
r><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms=
,sans-serif;font-size:small">Michael S<br></div></div><div class=3D"gmail_e=
xtra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><span>On Mon, Feb 15, 2016 at 5:03 PM,=
John Spaur <span dir=3D"ltr"><<a href=3D"mailto:jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net"=
target=3D"_blank">jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net</a>></span> wrote:<br></span><=
blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px=
#ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><span>I would not recommend restoring the ori=
ginal plastic steering wheels when<br>
excellent reproductions are available.<br>
<br>
The reason the plastic has cracked is because water has penetrated the whee=
l<br>
and it has started to oxidize the metal reinforcement which has expanded an=
d<br>
cracked the wheel. That process may of slowed down, but it will never stop.=
<br>
<br>
I stored an original wheel in my garage for several years intending to<br>
restore it. It appeared to be in the same reasonable shape when I went to<b=
r>
inspect it in preparation for restoration. When I pull at parts of it that<=
br>
looked to be in good shape, it=C2=A0 just crumbled in my hands.<br>
<span><font color=3D"#888888"><br>
John Spaur<br>
'62 BT7<br>
</font></span></span><div><div><span><br>
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</font></span></div></div></blockquote></div><span><font color=3D"#888888">=
<br><br clear=3D"all"><br>-- <br><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr=
"><i><font size=3D"2"><span style=3D"color:black">If you can't fix it w=
ith a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.</span></font></i><br><b=
r><div></div><div></div><div></div></div></div></div></div>
</font></span></div>
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