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Thanks Bob, I am working my way through the program. The engine was =
just rebuilt with only 100 miles on it by a well know machine shop and =
boiled cleaned etc. can only hope they did the right job.
=20
Have a original Texas cooler and the Shovel to direct the air through to =
the radiator which had a high cfm pusher fan. I have installed the =
tunnel which is wrapped in aluminum and some rubber insulation inside =
and out. It weighs a ton and does not get hot. However, the gear =
shifter porthole does not have the rubber seal so the air coming out of =
it is tremendous at 2000-3000 rpm, so the shovel really works. But, =
still the temperature rises
Within 2 weeks the original radiator will be re-cored. I am hoping that =
this will greatly reduce the coolant temperature to the level you =
describe.
=20
Meanwhile, I have a good list of items to consider adjusting. Will keep =
you all informed of the progress.
=20
Bob Begani
67 BJ8
=20
=20
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 2:41 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to =
theexisting radiator
=20
I have a BJ8 with:
- OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core
- Texas Cooler fan
- recently rebuilt engine with approx. 6K miles--hot-tanked, properly =
tuned, etc.--and Robertshaw sleeved 180degF thermostat
- Jet-Hot coated exhaust manifold
... and a BN2/100M with:
- OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core
- OEM art deco fan
- rebuilt engine with a couple thousand miles at most--still working on =
'perfect' mixture--and garden-variety Stant 180degF thermostat
- manifold with high-temp 'authentic color' paint only
Both behave identically, i.e. will run 'cool'--160degF or less--on cool =
days, 180degF on 'typical' days (72degF), and both will get hot (over =
200) sitting in traffic on typical or hotter days or pulling up a long =
grade.
FWIW
Bob
=20
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vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'>T=
hanks Bob, I am working my way through the program.=C2=A0 The engine was =
just rebuilt with only 100 miles on it by a well know machine shop and =
boiled cleaned etc. can only hope they did the right =
job.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'><=
o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'>H=
ave a original Texas cooler and the Shovel to direct the air through to =
the radiator which had a high cfm pusher fan.=C2=A0 I have installed the =
tunnel which is wrapped in aluminum and some rubber insulation inside =
and out. It weighs a ton and does not get hot.=C2=A0 However, the gear =
shifter porthole does not have the rubber seal so the air coming out of =
it is tremendous at 2000-3000 rpm, so the shovel really works.=C2=A0 =
But, still the temperature rises<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'>W=
ithin 2 weeks the original radiator will be re-cored. I am hoping that =
this will greatly reduce the coolant temperature to the level you =
describe.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'><=
o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'>M=
eanwhile, I have a good list of items to consider adjusting.=C2=A0 Will =
keep you all informed of the progress.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'><=
o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'>B=
ob Begani<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'>6=
7 =C2=A0BJ8<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
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o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
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o:p> </o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b>From:</b> Healeys =
<healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> <b>On Behalf Of </b>Bob =
Spidell<br><b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, January 14, 2020 2:41 PM<br><b>To:</b> =
healeys@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Over heating and =
adding additional core tubes to theexisting =
radiator<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>I have a BJ8 with:<br><br>- OEM radiator =
with 4-row 'Excel' core<br>- Texas Cooler fan<br>- recently rebuilt =
engine with approx. 6K miles--hot-tanked, properly tuned, etc.--and =
Robertshaw sleeved 180degF thermostat<br>- Jet-Hot coated exhaust =
manifold<br><br>... and a BN2/100M with:<br><br>- OEM radiator with =
4-row 'Excel' core<br>- OEM art deco fan<br>- rebuilt engine with a =
couple thousand miles at most--still working on 'perfect' mixture--and =
garden-variety Stant 180degF thermostat<br>- manifold with high-temp =
'authentic color' paint only<br><br>Both behave identically, i.e. will =
run 'cool'--160degF or less--on cool days, 180degF on 'typical' days =
(72degF), and both will get hot (over 200) sitting in traffic on typical =
or hotter days or pulling up a long =
grade.<br><br>FWIW<br><br>Bob<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div></body></html>
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