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Re: [Healeys] Overheating

To: "rfbegani@gmail.com" <rfbegani@gmail.com>, Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overheating
From: Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2021 23:39:19 +0000 (UTC)
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <036401d712d3$ce823c40$6b86b4c0$@gmail.com> x64; rv:86.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/86.0
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 Bob,=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 All you have to do is take out the temp gauge and p=
ut the sensor end in boiling water.=C2=A0 Open the front of the gauge by tw=
isting off the chrome bezel and remove the glass.=C2=A0 Remove the needle c=
arefully (watchmakers usually put a sheet of plastic over the gauge and lev=
er it off with two plastic levers)=C2=A0 then carefully press it back on at=
 a 212 degree reading.=C2=A0 The needle is just a press on fit.=C2=A0 This =
all Nisongers is going to do.=C2=A0 Obviously the gauge is working, just re=
ading incorrectly.=C2=A0 The worst that could happen is you can't get it ba=
ck together, then you can send it to Nisongers.=C2=A0 Try to save some mone=
y first.=C2=A0 You're going to need it for the ever rising gas prices.Mike =
MacLean

    On Saturday, March 6, 2021, 1:58:37 PM PST, rfbegani@gmail.com <rfbegan=
i@gmail.com> wrote: =20
=20
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Bob & Mike:

 =C2=A0

You both may have seen my requests on overheating of my BJ8 and the respons=
e from the group.=C2=A0 As a result, I purchased an infrared thermometer to=
 determine if my water gauge was giving accurate readings.=C2=A0 The thermo=
meter gun told me that my water gauge was 30 degrees higher than the temper=
ature of the sensor attached to the block.=C2=A0 At the same time, I notice=
d my gauge will show 120 degrees at rest instead of going down to 90 degree=
s which would indicate a 30-degree high reading.=C2=A0 In May when I leave =
for cool Michigan, I will send the gauge to Nisonger to be rebuilt.

 =C2=A0

I began to test the temperature of the water going through the cooling syst=
em at the inlet to and outlet from the block, inlet and outlet to the radia=
tor and the upper and lower hoses while the engine is running at idle and a=
t 2-3 Thousand rpm.=C2=A0 The chart I created to record these temperatures =
allowed me to produce observations or averages because the flow of the wate=
r is dependent upon the rpms of the engine.=C2=A0 The engine has overheated=
 all of the 40 years I have owned it and has only 1000 miles on the new spe=
edo since rebuilding to 20 over.=20

 =C2=A0

At the radiator inlet 134 outlet 85 at high rpms with electric fan operatin=
g.

=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=
=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 inlet 103 o=
utlet 94 at idle rpms with electric fan operating.=20

 =C2=A0

The above temperatures are recorded at the inlet and all along the hoses.

 =C2=A0

These temperatures indicate the pump is circulating water with sufficient g=
allons to cool the engine only when the engine is at high rpms.=C2=A0 At id=
le the pump does not circulate sufficient water to keep the engine cool.=C2=
=A0 This is especially true when you have been operating the engine at high=
 speed and come down to 30 =E2=80=93 40 mph and stop and go traffic.=C2=A0 =
Maybe the real answer is to install an electric pump for constant cooling w=
ater?

 =C2=A0

In the past week, I have installed a large Dorman coolant recovery tank and=
 a new 7 psi 1 inch radiator cap because I learned that our radiators have =
a long neck.=C2=A0 Both those changes have reduced my problem of very high =
overheating and resulting boiling over. =C2=A0In addition, when my water ga=
uge shows 212 degrees the water temperature is actually 30 degrees less or =
approximately 185 degrees.=C2=A0 Also, I am not boiling over and loosing co=
olant.=C2=A0 Nevertheless, the engine water temperature is still spiking to=
 210 plus degrees true when coming off highway speeds.=C2=A0=20

 =C2=A0

In my review of various sites, the radiator equipment suppliers and others =
are recommending increasing the pressure in the classic car systems to 15 p=
si plus, and coolant recovery tanks =E2=80=9Cif your coolant system, radiat=
or, hoses etc. is new=E2=80=9D and therefore can hold the pressure.=C2=A0 U=
nfortunately, I have not found any maker of a 1 inch depth x 2.33 inch diam=
eter radiator cap except our 7 psi cap so I can try such a pressurized syst=
em.

 =C2=A0

Another suggestion on an older discussion at the British Car Forum indicate=
d some of the Ontario car owners had switched to Evans Waterless Coolant ra=
ther than 50/50 coolant water mixture.

 =C2=A0

I still have no idea why a minority of our group has overheating problems.=
=C2=A0 More ideas?

 =C2=A0

Regards,

 =C2=A0

Bob Begani 67 BJ8=20

 =C2=A0

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Salter =
via Healeys
Sent: Saturday, March 6, 2021 12:20 PM
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps

 =C2=A0

Yes Bob, there is something wrong with our assumptions regarding the coolin=
g system not being "large" enough.=20

My wifes Maxima is around 300 HP and the radiator has less area than the 10=
0. Certainly it has a couple of very effective electric fans but they reall=
y don't cut in very often unless you have the AC on.

I'm suspicious of the rate of circulation but I've talked to Larry Varley a=
bout this subject and he indicated that increasing the size of the water pu=
mp annular orifice didn't make much difference when he tried it.

 =C2=A0

M

 =C2=A0

M

 =C2=A0

On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 11:42 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:


I sold my late father's 1955 Thunderbird to my BFF. These cars have a very =
similar problem to Healeys overheating, esp. at idle. When Ford stuffed the=
 292ci Y-Block into the T-Bird, they found the engine was (essentially) too=
 short for the long-hooded car, so they 'engineered'--I use the term loosel=
y--a cast iron spacer to move the fan closer to the radiator. The spacer ha=
d the added 'benefit' of severely limiting coolant flow through the pump an=
d radiator; there are some aftermarket fixes and my friend, after doing the=
 usual radiator re-core, better fan, etc. installed both a better pump (lar=
ger vanes) and a re-engineered spacer. Attached pic is not of the spacer he=
 used--I can't find the link to it--but it shows the general idea (Ford bas=
ically put a 'dam' in the cooling system to block flow, and the improved sp=
acers mostly remove it). It appears this approach has improved cooling, tho=
ugh the engine probably still gets warm if it has to sit too long at idle. =
Link is to one of the improved pumps:

https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-ca=
r/productinfo/8501HO/

Anyways, after doing all the usual stuff to increase cooling, esp. on my BJ=
8, I've wondered if a similar approach would work on Healeys. Their pumps h=
ave very small vanes, and the cavity in which the vanes operate seems prett=
y small for such a large lump of cast iron (I'm guessing an uprated radiato=
r core won't help much if the coolant flow is still hampered; at least, tha=
t's what I've found). This is probably not an option as, of course, our eng=
ines don't have a similar spacer to be improved upon, and it would be a maj=
or task to increase both the cavity's size and the pump (but I can dream).

ps. The overheating issue with Healeys is usually attributed to too big of =
an engine in too small of an engine compartment, and too little airflow. Bu=
t, the engine bay in an old T-Bird is huge by comparison--and the engine no=
t terribly larger in displacement--and still suffers the same problem.

Bob=20

 =C2=A0

_______________________________________________

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiv=
e

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

r.mike@att.net

 =20
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<html><head></head><body><div class=3D"ydp68ad1384yahoo-style-wrap" style=
=3D"font-family:times new roman, new york, times, serif;font-size:16px;"><d=
iv></div>
        <div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Bob,</div><div dir=3D"ltr" d=
ata-setdir=3D"false">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; All you have to do is take out the =
temp gauge and put the sensor end in boiling water.&nbsp; Open the front of=
 the gauge by twisting off the chrome bezel and remove the glass.&nbsp; Rem=
ove the needle carefully (watchmakers usually put a sheet of plastic over t=
he gauge and lever it off with two plastic levers)&nbsp; then carefully pre=
ss it back on at a 212 degree reading.&nbsp; The needle is just a press on =
fit.&nbsp; This all Nisongers is going to do.&nbsp; Obviously the gauge is =
working, just reading incorrectly.&nbsp; The worst that could happen is you=
 can't get it back together, then you can send it to Nisongers.&nbsp; Try t=
o save some money first.&nbsp; You're going to need it for the ever rising =
gas prices.</div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Mike MacLean<br></d=
iv><div><br></div>
       =20
        </div><div id=3D"yahoo_quoted_5382246048" class=3D"yahoo_quoted">
            <div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, s=
ans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
               =20
                <div>
                    On Saturday, March 6, 2021, 1:58:37 PM PST, rfbegani@gm=
ail.com &lt;rfbegani@gmail.com&gt; wrote:
                </div>
                <div><br></div>
                <div><br></div>
                <div><div id=3D"yiv2931163553"><style><!--
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--></style><div><div class=3D"yiv2931163553WordSection1"><p class=3D"yiv293=
1163553MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:Arial, sans-s=
erif;">Bob &amp; Mike:</span></p><p class=3D"yiv2931163553MsoNormal"><span =
style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;"> &nbsp;</span></p=
><p class=3D"yiv2931163553MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-f=
amily:Arial, sans-serif;">You both may have seen my requests on overheating=
 of my BJ8 and the response from the group.&nbsp; As a result, I purchased =
an infrared thermometer to determine if my water gauge was giving accurate =
readings.&nbsp; The thermometer gun told me that my water gauge was 30 degr=
ees higher than the temperature of the sensor attached to the block.&nbsp; =
At the same time, I noticed my gauge will show 120 degrees at rest instead =
of going down to 90 degrees which would indicate a 30-degree high reading.&=
nbsp; In May when I leave for cool Michigan, I will send the gauge to Nison=
ger to be rebuilt.</span></p><p class=3D"yiv2931163553MsoNormal"><span styl=
e=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;"> &nbsp;</span></p><p =
class=3D"yiv2931163553MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-famil=
y:Arial, sans-serif;">I began to test the temperature of the water going th=
rough the cooling system at the inlet to and outlet from the block, inlet a=
nd outlet to the radiator and the upper and lower hoses while the engine is=
 running at idle and at 2-3 Thousand rpm.&nbsp; The chart I created to reco=
rd these temperatures allowed me to produce observations or averages becaus=
e the flow of the water is dependent upon the rpms of the engine.&nbsp; The=
 engine has overheated all of the 40 years I have owned it and has only 100=
0 miles on the new speedo since rebuilding to 20 over. </span></p><p class=
=3D"yiv2931163553MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:Ari=
al, sans-serif;"> &nbsp;</span></p><p class=3D"yiv2931163553MsoNormal"><spa=
n style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;">At the radiator=
 inlet 134 outlet 85 at high rpms with electric fan operating.</span></p><p=
 class=3D"yiv2931163553MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-fami=
ly:Arial, sans-serif;">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp;&nbsp; inlet 103 outlet 94 at idle rpms with electric fan operating. <=
/span></p><p class=3D"yiv2931163553MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0=
pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;"> &nbsp;</span></p><p class=3D"yiv2931163=
553MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif=
;">The above temperatures are recorded at the inlet and all along the hoses=
.</span></p><p class=3D"yiv2931163553MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14=
.0pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;"> &nbsp;</span></p><p class=3D"yiv29311=
63553MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:Arial, sans-ser=
if;">These temperatures indicate the pump is circulating water with suffici=
ent gallons to cool the engine only when the engine is at high rpms.&nbsp; =
At idle the pump does not circulate sufficient water to keep the engine coo=
l.&nbsp; This is especially true when you have been operating the engine at=
 high speed and come down to 30 =E2=80=93 40 mph and stop and go traffic.&n=
bsp; Maybe the real answer is to install an electric pump for constant cool=
ing water?</span></p><p class=3D"yiv2931163553MsoNormal"><span style=3D"fon=
t-size:14.0pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;"> &nbsp;</span></p><p class=3D=
"yiv2931163553MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:Arial,=
 sans-serif;">In the past week, I have installed a large Dorman coolant rec=
overy tank and a new 7 psi 1 inch radiator cap because I learned that our r=
adiators have a long neck.&nbsp; Both those changes have reduced my problem=
 of very high overheating and resulting boiling over. &nbsp;In addition, wh=
en my water gauge shows 212 degrees the water temperature is actually 30 de=
grees less or approximately 185 degrees.&nbsp; Also, I am not boiling over =
and loosing coolant.&nbsp; Nevertheless, the engine water temperature is st=
ill spiking to 210 plus degrees true when coming off highway speeds.&nbsp; =
</span></p><p class=3D"yiv2931163553MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.=
0pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;"> &nbsp;</span></p><p class=3D"yiv293116=
3553MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:Arial, sans-seri=
f;">In my review of various sites, the radiator equipment suppliers and oth=
ers are recommending increasing the pressure in the classic car systems to =
15 psi plus, and coolant recovery tanks =E2=80=9Cif your coolant system, ra=
diator, hoses etc. is new=E2=80=9D and therefore can hold the pressure.&nbs=
p; Unfortunately, I have not found any maker of a 1 inch depth x 2.33 inch =
diameter radiator cap except our 7 psi cap so I can try such a pressurized =
system.</span></p><p class=3D"yiv2931163553MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-s=
ize:14.0pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;"> &nbsp;</span></p><p class=3D"yi=
v2931163553MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:Arial, sa=
ns-serif;">Another suggestion on an older discussion at the British Car For=
um indicated some of the Ontario car owners had switched to Evans Waterless=
 Coolant rather than 50/50 coolant water mixture.</span></p><p class=3D"yiv=
2931163553MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:Arial, san=
s-serif;"> &nbsp;</span></p><p class=3D"yiv2931163553MsoNormal"><span style=
=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;">I still have no idea w=
hy a minority of our group has overheating problems.&nbsp; More ideas?</spa=
n></p><p class=3D"yiv2931163553MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;f=
ont-family:Arial, sans-serif;"> &nbsp;</span></p><p class=3D"yiv2931163553M=
soNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;">R=
egards,</span></p><p class=3D"yiv2931163553MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-s=
ize:14.0pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;"> &nbsp;</span></p><p class=3D"yi=
v2931163553MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:Arial, sa=
ns-serif;">Bob Begani 67 BJ8 </span></p><p class=3D"yiv2931163553MsoNormal"=
><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;"> &nbsp;</s=
pan></p><div style=3D"border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.=
0pt 0in 0in 0in;"><p class=3D"yiv2931163553MsoNormal"><b>From:</b> Healeys =
&lt;healeys-bounces@autox.team.net&gt; <b>On Behalf Of </b>Michael Salter v=
ia Healeys<br><b>Sent:</b> Saturday, March 6, 2021 12:20 PM<br><b>To:</b> B=
ob Spidell &lt;bspidell@comcast.net&gt;<br><b>Cc:</b> healeys@autox.team.ne=
t<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps</p></div><p class=3D"yiv=
2931163553MsoNormal"> &nbsp;</p><div><div><p class=3D"yiv2931163553MsoNorma=
l"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;">Yes Bob,=
 there is something wrong with our assumptions regarding the cooling system=
 not being "large" enough. </span><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;"></span>=
</p></div><div><p class=3D"yiv2931163553MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size=
:12.0pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;">My wifes Maxima is around 300 HP an=
d the radiator has less area than the 100. Certainly it has a couple of ver=
y effective electric fans but they really don't cut in very often unless yo=
u have the AC on.</span><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;"></span></p></div>=
<div><p class=3D"yiv2931163553MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;fo=
nt-family:Arial, sans-serif;">I'm suspicious of the rate of circulation but=
 I've talked to Larry Varley about this subject and he indicated that incre=
asing the size of the water pump annular orifice didn't make much differenc=
e when he tried it.</span><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;"></span></p></di=
v><div><p class=3D"yiv2931163553MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;=
"> &nbsp;</span></p></div><div><p class=3D"yiv2931163553MsoNormal"><span st=
yle=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;">M</span><span style=
=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:Comic Sans MS;"></span></p></div><div><p c=
lass=3D"yiv2931163553MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family=
:Comic Sans MS;"> &nbsp;</span></p></div><div><p class=3D"yiv2931163553MsoN=
ormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:Comic Sans MS;">M</span>=
</p></div></div><p class=3D"yiv2931163553MsoNormal"> &nbsp;</p><div><div><p=
 class=3D"yiv2931163553MsoNormal">On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 11:42 AM Bob Spide=
ll &lt;<a rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer" ymailto=3D"mailto:bspidell@c=
omcast.net" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net";>bspidell=
@comcast.net</a>&gt; wrote:</p></div><blockquote style=3D"border:none;borde=
r-left:solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0in 0in 0in 6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;marg=
in-right:0in;"><div><p class=3D"yiv2931163553MsoNormal" style=3D"margin-rig=
ht:0in;margin-bottom:12.0pt;margin-left:11.4pt;">I sold my late father's 19=
55 Thunderbird to my BFF. These cars have a very similar problem to Healeys=
 overheating, esp. at idle. When Ford stuffed the 292ci Y-Block into the T-=
Bird, they found the engine was (essentially) too short for the long-hooded=
 car, so they 'engineered'--I use the term loosely--a cast iron spacer to m=
ove the fan closer to the radiator. The spacer had the added 'benefit' of s=
everely limiting coolant flow through the pump and radiator; there are some=
 aftermarket fixes and my friend, after doing the usual radiator re-core, b=
etter fan, etc. installed both a better pump (larger vanes) and a re-engine=
ered spacer. Attached pic is not of the spacer he used--I can't find the li=
nk to it--but it shows the general idea (Ford basically put a 'dam' in the =
cooling system to block flow, and the improved spacers mostly remove it). I=
t appears this approach has improved cooling, though the engine probably st=
ill gets warm if it has to sit too long at idle. Link is to one of the impr=
oved pumps:<br><br><a rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer" target=3D"_blank=
" href=3D"https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Outpu=
t-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/">https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Mo=
dified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/</a><br><br>Anyways, =
after doing all the usual stuff to increase cooling, esp. on my BJ8, I've w=
ondered if a similar approach would work on Healeys. Their pumps have very =
small vanes, and the cavity in which the vanes operate seems pretty small f=
or such a large lump of cast iron (I'm guessing an uprated radiator core wo=
n't help much if the coolant flow is still hampered; at least, that's what =
I've found). This is probably not an option as, of course, our engines don'=
t have a similar spacer to be improved upon, and it would be a major task t=
o increase both the cavity's size and the pump (but I can dream).<br><br>ps=
. The overheating issue with Healeys is usually attributed to too big of an=
 engine in too small of an engine compartment, and too little airflow. But,=
 the engine bay in an old T-Bird is huge by comparison--and the engine not =
terribly larger in displacement--and still suffers the same problem.<br><br=
>Bob </p></div><p class=3D"yiv2931163553MsoNormal" style=3D"margin-bottom:1=
2.0pt;"> &nbsp;</p></blockquote></div></div></div></div>___________________=
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