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Alan
Coils can fail with heat and then recover when cooled. I had one that had
these symptoms and when looking closely I saw that the insulating oil had
run out through a very small crack in the bottom of the case.
On Thu, 29 Sept 2022 at 10:34, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com> wrote:
> Michael -
>
> Just as a follow up to my email since the symptoms seem to manifest
> themself ...
>
> - whether the car is warmed up or not - this typically will exclude
> anything related to fuel or the coil
> - whether the car is under load or not - this typically will exclude
> anything related to fuel
> - whether the choke is pulled or not - this typically will exclude
> anything related to fuel
> - somewhat intermittent but systematically under all conditions -
> suggests to me wiring / ground issues
>
> Given this I'd check (as a priority):
>
> - Battery Master (when these fail they will ground the coil)
> - primary ignition wire (white) from the switch to coil (cycle the
> connections)
> - motor ground straps (cycle the connections)
> - loose wires in the dizzy
> - loose ignition wires into the dizzy or spark plug
>
> Other things to possibly do (as secondary):
>
> - replace rotor
> - replace dizzy cap
>
> I don't think it would be contacts or condensor simply because this would
> either be very regular all the time, or maybe sensitive to temp.
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
>
>
> On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 4:46 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> re: "... I don=E2=80=99t recall if that wire is separate from the distri=
butor
>> wire ..."
>>
>> It is (or should be). If the battery switch is in the 'OFF' position it
>> grounds the coil primary so no spark.
>>
>>
>> On 9/28/2022 8:34 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
>>
>> Hi Michael -
>>
>> Have you tried cycling the connections on the white wire from the
>> ignition switch to the coil, and also from the coil to the distributor.
>>
>> You might also want to try disconnecting the black and white wire at the
>> coil from the battery master switch - if it=E2=80=99s failing you=E2=80=
=99ll get weird
>> symptoms like this. If that wire is disconnected the car should run no
>> problem. I don=E2=80=99t recall if that wire is separate from the distr=
ibutor
>> wire, if it isn=E2=80=99t you=E2=80=99ll have to disconnect it from unde=
rneath the master
>> switch itself.
>>
>> Best,
>>
>> Alan
>>
>>
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<div dir=3D"ltr">Alan<div><br></div><div>Coils can fail with heat and then =
recover when cooled. I had one that had these symptoms and when looking clo=
sely I saw that the insulating oil had run out through a very small=C2=A0cr=
ack in the bottom of the case.</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><d=
iv dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Thu, 29 Sept 2022 at 10:34, Alan Sei=
grist <<a href=3D"mailto:healey.nut@gmail.com";>healey.nut@gmail.com</a>&=
gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0=
px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div =
dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"ltr">Michael -<br><br>Just as a follow up to my ema=
il since the symptoms seem to manifest themself=C2=A0=C2=A0...=C2=A0</div><=
div dir=3D"ltr"><ul><li>whether the car is warmed up or not - this typicall=
y will exclude anything related to fuel or the coil</li><li>whether the car=
is under load or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fue=
l</li><li>whether the choke is pulled or not - this typically will exclude =
anything related to fuel</li><li>somewhat intermittent but systematically u=
nder all conditions - suggests to me wiring / ground issues</li></ul><div>G=
iven this I'd check (as a priority):<br><ul><li>Battery Master (when th=
ese fail they will ground the coil)</li><li>primary ignition wire (white) f=
rom the switch to coil (cycle the connections)</li><li>motor ground straps =
(cycle the connections)</li><li>loose wires in the dizzy</li><li>loose igni=
tion=C2=A0wires into the dizzy or spark plug</li></ul><div>Other things to =
possibly do (as secondary):</div></div><div><ul><li>replace rotor</li><li>r=
eplace dizzy cap</li></ul></div>I don't think it would be contacts or c=
ondensor simply because this would either be very regular=C2=A0all the time=
, or maybe sensitive to temp.<br><br>Best,</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div>=
<div>Alan<br><br></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" clas=
s=3D"gmail_attr">On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 4:46 PM Bob Spidell <<a href=3D=
"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"; target=3D"_blank">bspidell@comcast.net</a>>=
; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px=
0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
=20
=20
=20
<div>
re: "... I don=E2=80=99t recall if that wire is separate from the
distributor wire ..."<br>
<br>
It is (or should be). If the battery switch is in the 'OFF' pos=
ition
it grounds the coil primary so no spark.<br>
<br>
<br>
<div>On 9/28/2022 8:34 PM, Alan Seigrist
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
=20
<div dir=3D"auto">Hi Michael -</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">Have you tried cycling the connections on the
white wire from the ignition switch to the coil, and also from
the coil to the distributor.</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">You might also want to try disconnecting the black
and white wire at the coil from the battery master switch - if
it=E2=80=99s failing you=E2=80=99ll get weird symptoms like this.=
=C2=A0 If that wire
is disconnected the car should run no problem.=C2=A0 I don=E2=80=99=
t recall
if that wire is separate from the distributor wire, if it isn=E2=80=
=99t
you=E2=80=99ll have to disconnect it from underneath the master swi=
tch
itself.</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">Best,</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">Alan</div>
</blockquote></div><br>
</blockquote></div></div>
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