This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--===============3802114160873440750==
boundary="------------O5er0uuv0Gx95l2t0UKbLBa9"
Content-Language: en-US
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------O5er0uuv0Gx95l2t0UKbLBa9
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
What was your cam break-in process? Did you use break-in oil?
For the last rebuild of my BJ8 engine I used a cam and lifters from
Denis Welch; they will only sell the cam and lifters as a package. The
lifters are 'modified' and the cam is gun-drilled for extra lubrication
to the lobe-lifter interface. Sounded good to me, but I haven't pulled
any lifters to check. They also sell bucket lifters with tubular push rods.
Note you can have too much ZDDP:
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-toolbox/zinc-additive-for-oil-how-much-zddp-is-enough/32478
Bob
On 10/9/2025 9:44 AM, Stephen Hutchings wrote:
> When I had my cam ground during the restoration, the machine shop recommended
> that I have the original lifters resurfaced and hardened, rather than buy
> replacements.
> This is going back a few years and there are now more options available. Some
> of those lifters pitted after 5, or 6 thousand miles, and some looked fine.
> I decided that the ones that pitted were not hardened properlyâ?¦an
> assumption I know!
> I corresponded with Mike Salter who was having lifter problems of his own,
> and in the end I replaced the whole set with the modified ones from AH spares
> because I no longer trusted the re-hardened set- and also removed the inner
> valve springs.
>
> After a few hundred miles the new lifters looked OK, but Iâ??m about to check
> them again, this time after a couple of thousand miles.
> Iâ??ve been doing a lot of reading about bucket lifters, tubular push rods,
> etc. and it seems that some people are saying the current replacement lifters
> are wearing prematurely because they are not domed properly and arenâ??t
> rotating.
> Just to add to the confusion, when I removed the set that were pitting, I
> could see by the pattern on the wear surface that indeed some didnâ??t seem
> to be rotating, but had no visible wear, whereas the worn ones seemed to be
> rotating.
> What Iâ??m throwing out to the list is - I wonder if anyone has experience
> with the tubular pushrod/ bucket lifter combinationâ?¦or any other
> alternatives.
> I donâ??t know what Iâ??m going to find after a couple of thousand mikes, but
> Iâ??d like to be ready with a strategy if thereâ??s a problem.
> And Mike, if youâ??re monitoring the list, what kind of lifters did you use
> in the end?
>
> Thanks,
> Stephen, BJ8
>
--------------O5er0uuv0Gx95l2t0UKbLBa9
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
<!DOCTYPE html>
<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
</head>
<body>
What was your cam break-in process? Did you use break-in oil?<br>
<br>
For the last rebuild of my BJ8 engine I used a cam and lifters from
Denis Welch; they will only sell the cam and lifters as a package.
The lifters are 'modified' and the cam is gun-drilled for extra
lubrication to the lobe-lifter interface. Sounded good to me, but I
haven't pulled any lifters to check. They also sell bucket lifters
with tubular push rods.<br>
<br>
Note you can have too much ZDDP:Â <br>
<br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-toolbox/zinc-additive-for-oil-how-much-zddp-is-enough/32478";>https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-toolbox/zinc-additive-for-oil-how-much-zddp-is-enough/32478</a><br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 10/9/2025 9:44 AM, Stephen Hutchings
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:9969BE90-48E9-48EE-A741-6F5774B8B883@rogers.com">
<pre wrap="" class="moz-quote-pre">When I had my cam ground during the
restoration, the machine shop recommended that I have the original lifters
resurfaced and hardened, rather than buy replacements.
This is going back a few years and there are now more options available. Some
of those lifters pitted after 5, or 6 thousand miles, and some looked fine.
I decided that the ones that pitted were not hardened properlyâ?¦an assumption
I know!
I corresponded with Mike Salter who was having lifter problems of his own, and
in the end I replaced the whole set with the modified ones from AH spares
because I no longer trusted the re-hardened set- and also removed the inner
valve springs.
After a few hundred miles the new lifters looked OK, but Iâ??m about to check
them again, this time after a couple of thousand miles.
Iâ??ve been doing a lot of reading about bucket lifters, tubular push rods,
etc. and it seems that some people are saying the current replacement lifters
are wearing prematurely because they are not domed properly and arenâ??t
rotating.
Just to add to the confusion, when I removed the set that were pitting, I could
see by the pattern on the wear surface that indeed some didnâ??t seem to be
rotating, but had no visible wear, whereas the worn ones seemed to be rotating.
What Iâ??m throwing out to the list is - I wonder if anyone has experience with
the tubular pushrod/ bucket lifter combinationâ?¦or any other alternatives.
I donâ??t know what Iâ??m going to find after a couple of thousand mikes, but
Iâ??d like to be ready with a strategy if thereâ??s a problem.
And Mike, if youâ??re monitoring the list, what kind of lifters did you use in
the end?
Thanks,
Stephen, BJ8
</pre>
</blockquote>
</body>
</html>
--------------O5er0uuv0Gx95l2t0UKbLBa9--
--===============3802114160873440750==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
--===============3802114160873440750==--
|