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Hi Ken,
Before replacing the relay, you might try using contact burnisher strips to
clean any oxidation from the points inside the relay:
https://www.uhs-hardware.com/products/jonard-tools-relay-contact-burnisher-=
files-fine-pack-of-3?variant=3D40145511383107/?utm_source=3Dsurfaces&utm_me=
dium=3Dfreelistings&gad_source=3D1&gad_campaignid=3D23174717677&gbraid=3D0A=
AAAACuutMHV6cbfhI-fA9LY45gP4HH7b&gclid=3DCjwKCAiA3L_JBhAlEiwAlcWO5wggIihaSm=
i2NcjZk_of7OplwtVtiUgrwrBII2VokHKUN-nO0Z_atxoCZiwQAvD_BwE.
Worth a shot rather than paying to replace with a repro. Your solution to
get through the air hose sounds like it should work.
Happy Healeying,
Rick
On Wed, Dec 3, 2025 at 8:31=E2=80=AFPM Ken Freese via Healeys <
healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:
> I have traced the fault of my left front turn signal to the big control
> box on the left inner fender. The upper mounting screw of the box is
> under the fresh air duct. I think I have to cut the duct as I can't
> shove it back towards the carbs more than a couple of inches. I thought
> of piecing the duct back together with some large pvc sleeve inside it.
> What does the list think?
> Also are the repro relay boxes any good?
> Thanks,
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
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<div dir=3D"ltr">Hi Ken,<div><br></div><div>Before replacing the relay, you=
might try using contact burnisher strips to clean any oxidation from the p=
oints inside the relay:=C2=A0<a href=3D"https://www.uhs-hardware.com/produc=
ts/jonard-tools-relay-contact-burnisher-files-fine-pack-of-3?variant=3D4014=
5511383107/?utm_source=3Dsurfaces&utm_medium=3Dfreelistings&gad_sou=
rce=3D1&gad_campaignid=3D23174717677&gbraid=3D0AAAAACuutMHV6cbfhI-f=
A9LY45gP4HH7b&gclid=3DCjwKCAiA3L_JBhAlEiwAlcWO5wggIihaSmi2NcjZk_of7Oplw=
tVtiUgrwrBII2VokHKUN-nO0Z_atxoCZiwQAvD_BwE">https://www.uhs-hardware.com/pr=
oducts/jonard-tools-relay-contact-burnisher-files-fine-pack-of-3?variant=3D=
40145511383107/?utm_source=3Dsurfaces&utm_medium=3Dfreelistings&gad=
_source=3D1&gad_campaignid=3D23174717677&gbraid=3D0AAAAACuutMHV6cbf=
hI-fA9LY45gP4HH7b&gclid=3DCjwKCAiA3L_JBhAlEiwAlcWO5wggIihaSmi2NcjZk_of7=
OplwtVtiUgrwrBII2VokHKUN-nO0Z_atxoCZiwQAvD_BwE</a>. Worth a shot rather tha=
n paying to replace with a repro.=C2=A0 Your solution to get through the ai=
r hose sounds like it should work.</div><div><br></div><div>Happy Healeying=
,</div><div>Rick</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote gmail_quote_conta=
iner"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Wed, Dec 3, 2025 at 8:31=E2=
=80=AFPM Ken Freese via Healeys <<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.ne=
t">healeys@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmai=
l_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,20=
4,204);padding-left:1ex">I have traced the fault of my left front turn sign=
al to the big control <br>
box on the left inner fender. The upper mounting screw of the box is <br>
under the fresh air duct. I think I have to cut the duct as I can't <br=
>
shove it back towards the carbs more than a couple of inches. I thought <br=
>
of piecing the duct back together with some large pvc sleeve inside it. <br=
>
What does the list think?<br>
Also are the repro relay boxes any good?<br>
Thanks,<br>
Ken Freese<br>
65 BJ8<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a> <a href=3D"h=
ttp://autox.team.net/archive/healeys" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">=
http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys</a><br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Healeys@autox.t=
eam.net</a><br>
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r" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
<br>
s/healeyrik@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.te=
am.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>
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_______________________________________________
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