Don,
Your list of questions is pretty extensive, but I'll try to give some
guidance, as best I can. See some responses in-line below. But there a a
couple of tips you might find helpful:
1) Try to find another PA/PB somewhere near to you as a reference. Often, a
look at another car will answer many more questions than you can even think
of. Contact me privately and I can give you a list of other P-types somewhat
nearby.
2) When you are wiring the car and testing out your work. DO NOT power the
system using the car's battery. The battery is capable of delivering far
more power than is healthy in the event you have unintentional shorts or
errors. Instead, power the system using a trickle charger - one with a
circuit breaker in case of a dead short. The breaker will trip before you
burn any wires, but it will supply enough power to run lighting, horn, and
accessories - just not the starting circuit.
-----Original Message-----
Questions:
1. The car is almost fully disassembled now. What special considerations
should I take during the assembly process re. the wiring? (example: pre-wire
the dash before mounting to the scuttle, drill holes)? I've seen special
metal protectors on wiring under the front wings near the brake assembly. Is
that correct and what is really called?
The MMM cars used a flexible metal conduit to keep dirt and moisture away
from the primary harness, and to protect it from bumps and bruises. You
should see these (one on each side of the firewall) in any PA shop manual.
Nothing else special that I can think of. I've never seen any other metal
"protectors". It shouldn't be truly necessary unless you don't care about
originality and aren't doing trialing with the car.
2. Regarding the dash... I have had all instruments refurbished/replaced. I
note the "diver helmet" dash lights have but a single wire emerging from the
center of the rear. I am assuming that is for "hot" feed from the "milk
churn" pull switch in the rhomboid panel. There also appears to be a small
hole (perhaps threaded) in the rear of the assembly. Is that for a ground
wire? Since the dash is wood, do I wire to the firewall/frame or where must
I
go back to ground? Seems as if many (Trafficators, dash lights, wipers,
etc.)
ground wires appear to go to panel fixing bolts for ground. Is that where
one
picks up ground to frame?
The helmet lamps, like anything else electrical, need a supply wire (the
single wire you describe) and a return wire. Usually the return wire
(ground) is taken from the body of the lamp. Often, it is a lug attached
under the mounting nut. And, yes, the panel fixing bolt is often used as the
return.
3. When I look at a wiring diagram, I don't see anything attached to aux.
electrical take off point neg. connection, Same question as above?
The Aux. connection (I assume you mean on the cutout/fuse box) is for
"auxiliary" equipment the owner or dealer would add. It's there for you
convenience in case you want to add other electrical equipment.
4. I'd planned to add running light(s) to front, and control through the
extra milk churn switch. How best do I best accommodate this within the
wiring harness. Do I have to have one custom made? Didn't really want to run
extra wire willy-nilly all over the car.
If you want to add a running light and your harness doesn't accommodate it,
you will need to add a wire from the fuse box to the switch to the light. If
you are careful and have A LOT of patience, you could work a wire through
the harness inside the loom. Frankly, I thinks id just as acceptable to run
an extra wire discreetly and neatly along side the harness.
5. I have been told that if I buy a harness from S & V, it comes already
wired for the "double dipping" on both lamps. Are there other considerations
with which I should be aware before purchase? Are there other/better
sources?
I have no experience with the S & V harness. Ask other P-type owners their
experiences. Custom additions can be made for such things as double-dip
headlights, driving lights, trafficators, etc. if you talk to the
manufacturer before you buy the harness. There are several, but I've lost my
list. I know Rhode Island Wiring Service is one:
Rhode Island Wiring Service Inc.
567 Liberty Lane, PO Box 434
West Kingston, RI 02892
Phone: (401) 789-1955
Fax: (401) 783-0091
Hours: Mon-Fri 9am-5pm EST
E-Mail: riwire@brainiac.com
6. Where is the brake switch and what does it look like?
The switch is usually mounted on the undertray (on a J2) in line with the
brake pedal. There should be some type of linkage from the bottom of the
brake pedal to the switch. The switch is a small metal cube-shaped box with
a spring loaded tang sticking through the side. When pulled, the switch
contacts inside close.
7. How have others handled the double vs. single rear brake/stop light? I
understand that various states here in US may have differing regs. I also
understand the originally, there was but a single rear light on the PA. In
judging competition, are cars "marked down" for displaying two if required
by
current road laws? In my readings I've also seen various individual
mountings for turn indicator lights and running lights mounted much higher
on
the rear for better visibility. Thoughts? Suggestions?
No issue on adding a second brake/tail light. Simply run a second light in
parallel from the first lamp to the second one. No one will penalize you for
making such a mod, especially if it is in keeping with the character of the
car. The police, however, may deduct points if you DON'T have the mod.
Wiring turn signals is quite another thing. See the next question/answer for
mor discussion.
7. Has anyone made the sidelamps "flash" for turn signals? I've never driven
with trafficators but question the eyesight/intelligence of the average
local
drivers after 32 years of freeway commuting. Is this even an issue?
It is modt definately an issue, if you want to stay alive, that is. Yes, I
have made the conversion to my J2 and plan to make the mod on my PB. It
requires double contact sockets in the side marker lights and in the tail
lamps. It also requires a flasher. Since the PA has trafficators, no
additional switch is necessary, but a relay may be necessary to switch the
function of the brake lights to turn signals in the event you have a turn
signal on and step on the brakes at the same time. I could (and will) design
a circuit for cars with trafficators like the P-type, but have not done so.
This will require a bit of engineering, so be patient.
8. Most importantly, there has to be dozens of things I've not even
considered. What am I forgetting?
Find youself a good book on basic auto electrics and read up. Once you
understand the basics, the rest is easier. Not a book on modern solid-state
electronics, just one on basic wiring.
Regards,
Lew Palmer
British Cars Web: http://www.team.net/sol
MMM list subscription info: http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
|