The curvature (if any) of the front bow should be such that when it rests
on the windshield frame the center of the bow rests on the center of the
frame, but the outer ends do not. When you put the top up, you first
clamp down one side of the front bow, then the other side. You should
have to push the second side down onto its peg fairly forceably. This
ensures that the front bow is clamped tight against the windshield frame
all the way across.
If the front bow is made (or modified) to match the curvature of the
windshield frame, then it will not clamp down tight and will be almost
impossible to make leak-free.
Over a long period of time (many years) the front bow will lose its
springyness. At that point it needs to be replaced.
On Sun, 14 Oct 2001 Roadrunner@Post.com wrote:
> What are the causes of, and the preventive measures against, imperfect
> seating and sealing of the leading edge of the hood against the top
> rail of the windscreen frame?
>
> We've heard of some "soaking" a new wooden bow in a tube of live
> steam, then clamping that bow against the windscreen frame, intending
> to warp the wooden bow permanently into the proper curvature.
>
> Is that the proper technique with new wood?
> Does that alone resolve the issue permanently?
> Are there other issues to consider?
>
> Did the original wooden bows at the leading edge of the hood always
> lose its original fit and develop "the wrong curvature" ?
>
> Is this inevitable?
--
Chip Old 1948 M.G. TC TC6710 XPAG7430 NEMGTR #2271
Cub Hill, Maryland 1962 Triumph TR4 CT3154LO CT3479E
fold@bcpl.net
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