Hi Bob,
I'm not running sil in my brake system I'm using Castrol LMA. Switches are
cheap, but one would hope that they wouldn't fail so soon, especially the
ones from Lucas....
Since I'm sure other people will ask about cold startiing, after conflating
everyone's suggestions here's what I came up with which seems to work for
me:
Prep work:
I. Make sure there's almost no slack in the choke cable when the choke is
fully in, (there needs to be some slack, but not very much).
II. Make sure that both carb jets are pulled out as far as possible when
fully choked.
III. Make sure that the fast idle screw is properly adjusted for cold
weather so that the butterflies aren't open too far.
Here goes...
1. Fully choke the engine.
2. Turn on the ignition to fill the float bowls.
3. Turn off the ignition.
4. Crank the starter a few times with the ignition off.
5. Hit the gas pedal once.
6. Turn on the ignition.
7. Pull the starter.
While some may want to tweak the details this seems to work. The last two
mornings here it's been in the 20's and the TD's kicked over with 20secs of
so of hitting the starter. Yesterday on the first pull and today on the
second.
Thanks again everyone!
Scott
On 2/9/06, Bob Grunau <grunau.garage@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
> Scott,
> So what helped the starting problem?
> Brake light switches are known to fail, maybe even due to silicone fluid?
> Try your test light on the brake light side of the switch with a helper
> pressing the pedal. No juice ? Switch has failed.
> Bob Grunau
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