The MG door was equipped with a diagonal metal strap, that was screwed
into the wooden door frame. It extended from the front top area, to the
lower wooden section, near the lower hinge. While this might not look
like it, it effectively was a turnbuckle. By taking a crescent wrench,
adjusting the jaws to be tight on the strap, then placing a drift in the
ring end of the crescent wrench and twisting, shortens the length of the
metal strap. You can bring the lower edge of the door closer to the body
tub, by performing this technique. I have seen people install one or two
diagonal cable and turnbuckle assemblies inside a door frame.
John Seim
Irvine, CA
Eugene D Abbondelo wrote:
>Someone on our Singer bulletin board mentioned that a typical fix for a door
>on an MG TD that's warped was to use a rod and turnbuckle fastened diagonally
>across the inside frame of the door and tightened to bring the door flush with
>the bodywork. Can someone tell me if this is correct on my car, and if so the
>correct procedure? Here's my problem:
>
>The doors on my 1949 Singer roadster would be very similar in construction to
>the MG T-series: an ash frame covered in sheet metal (on the Singer its
>aluminum) Both my doors are warped outwardly at the bottom corner on the
>latch side below the door handle. It amounts to about 1/8 of an inch where
>the door stands proud of the bodywork, so its quite noticeable. I'm afraid of
>trying to press the door in at the bottom for fear of creasing the aluminum.
>
>Can I fit a rod and turnbuckle diagonally from the bottom problem corner to
>the opposite side top and tighten it and thus bring the bottom of the door
>flush with the bodywork?
>
>Any help appreciated!
>
>Gene
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