Hi Matt
Sounds like your starter is almost dead -- very typical -- for TR8s the
starter is so close to the cats that it just gets burnt up -- you know it's
on the way out when you get really slow cranking . Here is an article that I
wrote for the TR8 community. You may find it useful.
Paul MacDonald
TR8 Starter Rebuild on the CHEAP
By Paul MacDonald
Got my project TR8 fired up yesterday. I bought it a couple of years ago
from a guy on Long Island NY. It had been sitting for about 4 years, at
least -- then.
I had to get an alternator, rewire the starter side wiring and "rebuild "
the starter.
I had the starter in and out of it about 6-7 times this weekend. Getting
pretty good at it too , I must say -- got it down to about 15 minutes/out
and 15 minutes/in. While scrounging around the garage and looking at
starters -- on Sunday-- I noticed that the starter for an MGB ( have about 6
of these) are almost identical.
Here is the big news -- the armature on the MGB starter fits and works in
the TR8 starter body too-- as well, so does the armature out of a TR7
starter! This is a big advantage since MGB starters are a dime a dozen and
usually aren't fried like the TR8 ones that I have seen. As you all know the
TR8 starter sits right beside the catalytic converter and after a number of
years just gets ruined from all the heat.
I used the solenoid from an MGB starter -- same part number on the side of
it, although it shows that it has a different part number in Victoria
British.
I looked up the part numbers in Victoria British for the armatures and they
are the same part number for all three starters. It appears that the field
windings have a different part number -- but sure look the same. I just used
the armature. You have to change the gear drive end from one armature to the
other though. Not a big problem -- Here's how..
Take the solenoid off the side of the starter assembly -- remember which
electrical post gets connected to the starter motor -- they are different --
don't ask how I know!
Also remember that the end of the solenoid clips onto the lever inside the
nose piece (the cast part that bolts the whole starter assembly to the
engine). When re-installing the solenoid, I found it easier to take the post
out of the solenoid, clip the end onto the lever then slide the solenoid
onto the post. You will see what I mean when you get the solenoid off.
Next, take off the long bolts holding the starter motor body to the nose
piece. Don't worry too much if one the long bolts break -- try to save them
by using WD 40 on the threads, but if they break off -- all is not lost--
read on.
The next part that has to come off is the pivot pin which is located between
the solenoid and the starter motor on the nose piece This pin holds the
lever/gear drive assembly into the nose piece. Use a drift and hammer out
this pin.
Now you can take the whole body of the starter motor together with armature
and engagement gear/lever drive assembly out of the starter nose piece.
Take the little rubber cup off the outside end of the starter motor and pry
the clip holding the armature onto the motor end piece (that holds the
brushes etc).This will allow the armature to come out of the starter motor
body.
To get the gear/lever assembly off the armature, go to the other end of the
armature and with a suitable sized deep socket tap the retainer cup off the
circlip that prevents the assembly from coming off the shaft. Then remove
the circlip by carefully prying the circlip out of the grove on the shaft,
with a small screw driver, and pushing it off the shaft with the gear/lever
assembly.
Re-assembly just about the reverse -- use a suitable sized socket to replace
the external clip on the end of the armature. When you re-install the
circlip and retainer on the lever end make sure that the retainer cup clips
back over the circlip.
If you have managed to break one of the long bolts -- just drill though and
get a longer bolt and put a nut on the 'new ' end. One of my MGB starters
already had this done.
When I tried the above on my car the starter worked like a new one -- and
cost nothing!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Matt Diamond [SMTP:mgb_69@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 7:48 PM
> To: mgb-v8@autox.team.net
> Subject: Starter
>
> Hello all,
>
> Does anyone have any idea how fast a starter has to spin to start a Buick
> 215? By that I mean how many RPMs the engine should turn while trying to
> starting the engine. Any info on stock versus the gear reduction units
> would
> also be appreciated.
>
> I am in hopes that there is not an internal engine problem creating what I
>
> might consider as slow cranking, but, since I have no idea, can anyone
> tell
> me how many foot pounds of torque it takes to turn the engine by hand with
>
> plugs removed? The size of the nut on the crank shaft would also be
> appreciated since I doubt I have one of the needed size and will have to
> get
> one if I am going to proceed with this test.
>
>
> Thanks in advance for all replies,
>
> Matt
> _________________________________________________________________
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