In theory you don't need to, there would be no circulation with the heater
off as has already been pointed out. On factory V8s there is an *internal*
circulation path which starts inside the inlet manifold right by the heater
valve outlet, and ends on the back of the water pump again right by where
the heater return goes, which is another reason for not needing the heater
circuit. But not all conversions, even using the Rover engine, seem to have
that internal circuit, nor the steam pipe from the left-hand side of the
mixture intake to the radiator side of the thermostat. These cars seem to
suffer from pulsing of the temp gauge as there seems to be insufficient
circulation of coolant in the inlet manifold, and having the heater valve on
these cars open a tad seems to 'clear' it. So if you block off the heater
circuit, and find you get this pulsing, then reconnecting the heater circuit
may well fix it.
My factory V8 always tended to have a pulsing temp gauge during warm up,
tended to chuck out a bit of coolant after switching off, then after about
60k miles in my ownership starting pushing coolant out of the expansion tank
all the time, the radiator filling up with air, and consequently
overheating. Eventually, and after a lot of inconclusive diagnosis, I
pulled the inlet manifold and heads to see if I could find anything wrong.
The only thing I *did* find was the internal bypass tube blocked. Cleared
that, reassembled, and as well as not pushing out any coolant I now don't
even get the pulsing temp gauge during warm up or vomiting after switch-off.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
> I have a 1977 MGB with a Buick 300 engine. For the time being, I do not
plan
> to install the heater core and am wondering if it is O.K. to just route
the
> hose from the water pump to the rear of the intake manifold. Will this
cause
> a problem with the water circulation? I seem to have an overheating
problem
> which appears to be caused mainly by inadequate air flow.
///
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