On Mon, 22 Jan 1996, Michael MacLeod wrote:
> ... painted in Sikkens Black w/ several coats of Clear 5 years ago
> Tough? Two years ago I stressed my heart muscle something fierce as I
> watched my front License Plate frame w/ Plate and Brackets drop from a 6ft
> It's hardly noticable...
Along the same lines, I painted my B a few months ago in Damask
red (deep maroon) with '21 Line Glasurit'- a catalyzed acrylic
urethane.
(faint of heart stop here.....)
While hanging one of the doors, I tripped over the cord of
my tripod spotlight- knocking it over and into the door along
the crease for the trim strip. The paint did not chip, although
the light head did create a tiny ding. Fortunately the trim strip
covers it. Cords now hang from the the ceiling.
(...faint of heart resume here. )
Regarding paint: three comments were almost universally mentioned
when I solicited advice from this group regarding the subject:
1.) the quality of the final job is directly proportional to the
quality of the surface prep (much more so than the paint
type/brand or spray equipment )
2.) in general, catalyzed urethane/enamel paint will cure harder
than acrylic lacquer but not 'flow' as smooth- resulting in
a somewhat less shiny 'orange peel' effect.
3.) Paint type and brand are personal/religious issues, but it is
recommended to stick with a single vendors primers/paint/clear
system.
I could not agree more. I opted for urethane for durability.
It took many hours of careful wetsanding (primer and paint) and
buffing to achieve a really wet glasslike surface. YMVM, etc.
--Scott
Scott Hower --> howersl@ttown.apci.com
Air Products & Chemicals, Inc.
7201 Hamilton Blvd Trexlertown, PA
(610) 481-2646
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