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Re: Tow Bars

To: Tim Moses <moses@csra.net>
Subject: Re: Tow Bars
From: prsmith@satcom.whit.org
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 96 20:46:49
In <199602221331.GAA28651@triumph.cs.utah.edu>, on 02/22/96 at 06:31
AM,
   Tim Moses <moses@csra.net> said:


>        No, and I am not a "by-the-book" mechanic, but I have towed
>my 79 MGB about 200 miles using a tow bar attached to the two (2) tow
>points underneath the front end on the frame.  I did not remove the
>BUMPER, but I did remove the air dam so that the tow bar would reach. 
>I used the standard "V" shaped tow bar (purchased from Pep Boys
>automotive part store ~$100) Had to bend the tow points inward
>slightly so that the bolts of the tow bar could slide through.  This
>also allowed me to tighten down on the bolts and get a very snug and
>sturdy towing arrangement.  The Ford Explorer+MGB handled very nicely
>at speeds up to 75mph. 

I am not sure I understand your connecting arrangement.

These tow points have their holes at right angle to the fore-aft axis
of the vehicle.  Is this the way your tow bar was supposed to be
mounted? with the attaching bolts at right angles to the direction of
pull?  Did you use bolts with a high sheer strength?

>>A second point.  Reese says that the bar's points of contact with the
>>towed vehicle must be between 26 and 40 inches.  Using the existing
>>holes on the towed vehicle's bumper brackets the max spread I can
>>reach is 24".  Since the towed vehicle weighs less than one half the
>>rated weight of the bar, do you think the 2" deficit would be a
>>problem?

>        Probably not.  I like your point about the vehicle weight,
>which is why I was not reluctant to bend the tow points slightly
>inward.   But then again, MY MGB IS NOT (currently) in SHOWROOM
>CONDITION.  I would not recommend the above approach if your MG is in
>very nice condition.

Neither are mine!!  Besides MGBs are for driving - not showing <grin>

>        Instead, I would recommend that you weld an "adapter"
>connection to the __tow points__ of the MG so that the car can be
>pulled using the strong points of the frame intended (and quite
>possibly designed) for towing. Alternatively, you could just get 2
>steel plates approx 2"x8" and drill 5/8" holes in either end.  Attach
>one end to the tow point and the other to the tow bar.  Kind of like
>an extender.  Make sure the bolts are very snug and use lock washers.

That makes sense also but i would have to make sure that the plate
stayed parallel to the ground.

Thanks
Preston 
=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+ Preston
Smith (prsmith@satcom.whit.org) {Retiring summer 96} Betti Ann's
toys: 6 looms and 2 spinning wheels
Our toys: 94 Grand Cherokee (attached to a 27' Shasta trailer) and 93
Altima My MGB toys: '80 LE (drivable), '79 Roadster (w/o oil
pressure), '80 Roadster (inop)
=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+


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