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Re: Hez_ Dash & Fender Replacement

To: Hezekiah Bolton <boltons@teleport.com>
Subject: Re: Hez_ Dash & Fender Replacement
From: "John M. Trindle" <jtrindle@tsquare.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 1996 08:06:15 -0400 (EDT)
On Mon, 2 Sep 1996, Hezekiah Bolton wrote:

> John,  I must have missed the advise you received from the list about
>        how to remove the dash.  I've been trying to psych myself up to
>        approach that job on my '76 MGB.  What kind of car do you have?
>        If you still have that info, I'd love to have it, or a condensed
>        version if it. 
>        Also, thanks for sharing your experiences with the fender work

Ah yes, the dash.

This is for a 73 B (MkII?).  Yours may be slightly different.

1.  Remove the glove box.
2.  There are a series of studs protruding from the back side of the dash
    into the body of the car itself.  They have nuts and washers at least
    (maybe split washers as well).  Use a 7/16" socket or wrench to remove
    the nuts where the glove box was.  They are spaced about every
    6" across the dash. 
3.  Reach in where the glove box was and to the left.  In the 73 there is
    a pair of fresh-air vents here.  Remove the hoses from the backs of
    the vents, and with a Phillips or Posi screwdriver remove the two
    screws holding the vent assembly in.  You are unscrewing them from
    BEHIND the dash, blind.

4.  This gives you room to get your hands in to remove one more nut and
    washer from a top dash stud.

5.  Starting from the other side, the studs are in the symmetrically 
    similar place.  You will need to remove at least the speedo and the
    tach to get your hands in.  One stud is right above the mechanical
    oil pressure gauge and may require removal of wires to the alternator
    light, and high-beam light.

6.  On the bottom:  First drop the steering column down with the 3 bolts
    which fasten it onto the dash.  These use a 9/16" socket.

7.  There is a Phillips/Posi screw which fastens a backup-bracket for the
    heater thermostat control to the cross-brace.  Remove this.

8.  There may be bolts under where the glove box was, fastening the bottom
    of the dash to the cross-brace.  Remove these (they were missing on
    mine).


The whole dash lifts back and up.  You can't get it very far off unless
you disconnect the heater cables, etc., but this is good enough to get at
the windscreen frame bolts and fender bolts... my goal in this whole
operation.

While you're under there, inspect the wiring and replace all that rotten
ducting.  Try to remember which wires went to which switch/gauge/light.
Get all the leaves out of the fresh air vent... open the fresh air door
and marvel at the deterioration of felt seals over time.

As for putting it back together?

"Assembly is the reverse of disassembly".

I'll let you know <g>.

John M. Trindle | jtrindle@tsquare.com | Tidewater Sports Car Club
'73 MGB DSP     | '69 Spitfire E Stock | '88 RX-7 C Stock
"6.  When you starve with a tiger, the tiger starves last.  (The second law
of reality.) - Jack Neafsey"


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