Rich Mason wrote:
>
> At 09:07 PM 2/2/97 -0500, you wrote:
>
> >j.p. phil, it's not elementary, but most of the time the cam wear is not
> >dictated by the manufacturer, but by break-in procedure. the first 5
> >minutes and the first 25 minutes of cam life are the most critical..
> >this requires good pre-lube, correct startup procedures and several
> >other simple, basic but needed steps.
>
> C'mon Ted...
>
> ...this list is for sharing information...not teasing folks! Why not share
> some of these "simple, basic but needed steps" with us... I'm sure many of
> us will appreciate your wisdom.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Rich Mason
> '73 B
> __________________________________________
> e-mail--> rmason@ro.com
> WWW-----> http://ro.com/~rmason
> MG Page-> http://ro.com/~rmason/mgpage.htm
> __________________________________________
ok rich, you asked for it so here we go. we have to decide if this new
cam is in a "new" - read never run, firsr time start-up or in a running
engine that is just under going a cam change. in case #1, care must be
rtaken to insure that oil pressure has been pumped up - not by turning
over the enigne with the starter while the plugs are out, but by driving
the oil pump with a drill and tool. you can build oil pressure with the
starter, but you are taking a major chance on spinning over an engine
that has not filled the oil galleys, crank passages, etc. with oil
pressure and the crank at TDC compresion, #1 cyl, you aim the rotor at
the #1 plug wire terminal on the cp, carb(s) have been filled with gas,
all electrical hook-ups are complete and it is ready to run.. the car
should be running within 7 revolutions of the engine. once started, the
revs need to be held at 2000 rpm with no load, no blipping the throttle
for 200 - 25 minutes. ath that time the engine is shut down. oil and
filter immediately replaced and all bolts recheckedm, head retorqued,
etc ( time to torque head - hot or cold depends on gasket type).
restarte engine - put about 1 - 1 1/2 hour time and replace oil and
filter again - do it again at 500 miles and again at 1000 miles. then
just normal servic eintervals.. DO NOT attempt to breakin the engine
withsynthetic oil. when we were racing an SCCA pro eries, we had a deal
with mobil oil using mobil 1. great stuff. you could have an engine on
the dyno with regular oil, shut it off and drain, refill with mobil 1 an
d ead a horsepower increase just from the oil change. very slippery - so
slippery that it won't allow the rings, etc. to seat. anyhow on to the
cam only install. degreed properly, new good quality lifters - be
careful here cause there are some junk lifters available - correct valve
springs and seat pressures, correct clearances (always set .002 - .003"
larger than called for on initial start-up) use a really good prelube -
not just cover the lifter with STP start engine - immdeiate oil presure
- same 2000 rpm wioth no load for 25 minutes - change il and filter,
etc. if there is any doubt on the possibility of metal in the system,
throw the oil cooler away. $ 75 is cheaper by far than a broken
engine. call me or email with questions. hope this helped sorry to be
so long, but... thanks, ted. ted schumacher, ts imported automotive,
pandora, oh 800/543-6648; 419/384-3272 fax yes, we do sell good cams.
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