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Connections, plugs, FI

To: mgs@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Connections, plugs, FI
From: Bill Eastman <william.eastman@medtronic.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 14:47:35 -0500
Crimping vs soldering.  I solder because crimps are only as good as the
crimp tool.  Most of us don't own really good crimp tools.  soldering,
provided you use resin core wire, resin flux, and enough heat, is more
consistent in making a good connection.  Most all OEM harnesses use crimp
connections but they are very good crimps.  This level of crimp integrety
is hard to duplicate at home.

There are three enemies to automotive electrical systems.  Vibration, flex,
and corrosion.  Where solder shines compared to crimps is in the corrosion
area.  The lead / tin seals the connection from the elements.  Corrosion is
the biggest problem with LBC electical systems and those wonderful Lucas
bullet connectors.  Look at any modern harness and you will notice that
connections exposed to the elements are filled with silicone grease and
sealed with rubber gaskets.  Flex fatigue can be a problem with soldering
since the solder can wick up the wire and make it stiff.  If this stiff
section extends beyond the strain relief (preferably heat shrink but tape
is OK) then the wire will bend at a tight radius at the end of the wicked
solder and the wire will fail.  If you aren't strain relieving your
connections then you are begging for trouble.  Crimped spade connectors
often include there own strain relief- notice one part crimped to the wire
and one part crimped to the insulation.  

Concerning mechanical strength of the joint-  don not rely on solder to
provide mechanical strength.  The joint design should provide the strength
and solder shoud completed the connection.  I often crimp a connection then
solder for good measure.

House wiring doesn't move.  It also isn't subjected to road spray.  Wire
nuts are fine for houses.  

I believe that the reason platinum is use in plugs is because of its
stability at high temperature and its resistance to erosion by electrical
deposition.  This allows the electrode to be made smaller and still survive
in the engine.  It also helps it to maintain sharp edges.  Both of these
helps the spark jump at a lower voltage for a given gap.  I am not aware of
any use of platinum's catalyctic properties in spark plugs but I could be
wrong.

For MG fuel injection,  pick up a copy of Hot Rod or Grass Roots Motor
Sports.  Clifford Engineering claims to be the expert in systems for 4 and
six cylinder cars and they used to advertise in Hot Rod.  Many companies
advertise FI systems for racing and fast road use in GRMS including
throttle bodies that bolt on in place of existing carbs such as Weber DCOE.
 The fuel injection book mentioned is interesting but hopelessly out of
date.  A rough guess at the cost of an MG FI system would be 2,000 to 4,000
dollars depending on features.  Installation is next to impossible without
a dyno and a laptop although I read that one company claims to sell a self
learning ECM.  I would stay away from trying to adapt an existing system
from another car because of the low level of adjustability provided in OEM
systems.

Regards,
Bill Eastman
61 MGA with no electronics (positive earth, you know)
Daily drivers chock full of electrons

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