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Re: Re[2]: rheostat--help!

To: mgs@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: Re[2]: rheostat--help!
From: Mark Moburg <markmoburg@mindspring.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 1997 19:21:14 -0700
At 08:29 AM 6/24/97 EST, you wrote:
          <big snip>
>>      5) Can I go without it for now and still have headlights and 
>> dashboard
>>      lights?
>     
>Definitely.  After I bought a replacement for my old, locked up 
>rheostat, I found that I run it at full brightness anyway.  The lights 
>really aren't very bright.  So, you would just connect the two wires 
>together - this would give the same effect as the rheostat at full CW 
>rotation.  Headlights aren't effected by it anyway.

===Reply===
Another little secret:  If your instrument lights are the screw-in type (my
58 MGA, 57 Jaguar, and 71 TR-6 all had them), Radio Shack carries bulbs.
Fun part is they sell 'em in different voltages, 99 cents for a package of
two.  Beats the three bucks each I paid for genuine Lucas last time!  If
your lights are too dim, buy the 7.2 volt models.  I expect that they'll
burn out occasionally, but they'll be REALLY BRIGHT!  If too bright, buy the
14.4 volt models.  

My 57 Jaguar has a front-lit instrument panel, 4 bulbs under an overhang on
the dash, with violet covers over the bulbs.  Looks weird, and the covers
kill half the light.  The car only has two settings for the lights; off and
on.  The 7.2 volt bulbs work great, and I can see the instruments now.
Although I was expecting them to burn out a lot, I haven't had one go in two
years (though I don't drive the car much at night).

Mark Moburg
markmoburg@mindspring.com


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