Whoa. Hot tanking will do a wonderful job for stripping ebsolutely everything
of cast iron. It is the best way to get it down to bare metal. However, in the
process, it will destroy the cam bearing shells that typically stay in the
If you are sure you're going to replace the camshaft bearings anyway, then hot
tank it. The little tin snip on the block that contains your serial numbers will
also be lost in a hot tank -- and some cold tanks, too.
There is a "cold tank" process that is just a caustic degreaser. If your engine
isn't terrible dirty then that will do the trick just fine.
FWIW: $3 at the 25 cent self-server car wash has always gotten my stuff clean
enough to paint. If you are going to have the block machined anyway, though, you
can have the block cleaned by the machine shop. Just keep in mind what you want
out the other end.
Bob Allen, Kansas City, '69CGT, '75TR6
Chris Delling wrote:
> I am assuming that you are discussing a rebuild of the engine. A very
> important step in this process is having the block hot-tanked - it goes
> into a chemical bath to boil out the old dirt and corrosion in the oil and
> water passages, and ensures a clean block to begin inspection or
> reassembly. This process will also remove all the old paint.
> Chris Delling
> At 10:33 PM 1/25/98 -0400, Enrique Claure wrote:
> >>Hello fellow MGers, My MGB´s engine is out and ready for a 99.99% overhaul.
> >Before I do so, I will paint the engine with Maroon Red form Hirsch Auto. I
> >must first remove the original worn down paint. What should I use to do so:
> >1. Sand blast 2. Chemical Stripper 3. Stripper and Mechanical sanding?
> >Thanks for your advice, ENrique.