On Tue, 3 Feb 1998, David Altman wrote:
> Hi Everyone:
>
> I'm in the initial throws of taking apart my 77B for
> restoration. Got most of the interior out and plan on pulling the
> engine out this weekend. I've looked through my books and various
> references but am at a loss to answer the following questions. Sorry
> for the volume of q's and/or the ignorance of them.
>
> - Are there specific lift points for pulling the engine out? Do you
> need to make some kind of jig or just wrap nylon webbing or chain around
> it to pull it out with an engine lift?
****Yes the two top cylinder head bolts that hold the valve cover down.
Make up a pair of L brackets and attacha a chain to the brackets, then
lift it out. An engine lifter works best>
> - Once the engine is out can you use any generic engine stand or do I
> need specific mounting plate or something?
>
> - Is trying to replace the diver floor board and the driver inner/outer
> sill set a stupid thing to try to do as a novice? How big is the risk
> of totally putting the body out of alignment? (I'm excited about buying
> a welder!)
> ****I would let a pro do this unless you like problems.
> - Can I assume if all the interior panels (floorboards, inner panels
> etc.) are red that the car was originally red, despite a horrible try at
> a BRG paint job that it now chipping away?
>
> - How much should I expect to pay to have the engine block bored out and
> the heads redone? What's the minimum I could have a shop do and do the
> rest of the rebuild myself?
> ****You can get a complete rebuilt engine for $1,400 so I would take it
apart and price it out before I started spending the money.
> - For all the inner panels: what's the process for refinishing them
> before all the interior stuff goes back in? Do I sand them all down and
> use rust system like POR or Carroless? Then have it finished the same
> as the body paint job in a shop? Engine Compartment as well?
>
> - How about the body after I get the rusted floor board and sill taken
> care of? Should I take it down to bare metal and have the shop do t
t to prime it myself?
*** Do the whole job yourself for about $200 dollars
>
> - Last one: Looks like the PO drove down a road that the asphalt hadn't
> quite set. There is gobs of road tar etc. attached to all the
> suspension parts. I can get most of it off with a screwdriver but it
> looks pretty beat up. What if any thoughts on pulling all the parts and
> getting them sandblasted and then paint them up? Should I attempt to
> sand and repaint the whole under carriage?
**** Forget it it won't hurt anything
...Art>
> Thanks for your patience... I'm learning slowly but surely.
>
> David
>
>
> David J. Altman Novations Group Inc. daltman@novations.com
> 801-3757525 Fax 801-375-7595 "Nothing Profound at the
> Moment"
>
>
|