Maybe so, maybe not. I don't know. Dave Raymond has worked on a few
thousand more TDs than I have ever seen, and it was he who wrote the
information that the editor of TSO saw fit to publish. Perhaps a call to
Dave at Abington Classics/USA, 12 Old Redding Rd, W. Redding, CT 06896,
phone 203-438-6865 would resolve the ambiguity.
Bob
On Tue, 25 Aug 1998 19:07:17 -0700 Jarl&CaroldeBoer <deboer@pacbell.net>
writes:
>Ah but Bob, WE HAVE A PROBLEM!!!!!
>
>The original TC/TD thermostat had an outer sleeve that also moved to
>block the bypass hose when the thermostat valve opened. The bypass
>hose
>is that smaller diameter hose that runs down at an angle to the steel
>3
>way connector for the lower hoses. The bypass' function was for the
>water flow when the system was cool to be directed to the thermostat
>bellows (and not through the radiator) to help the thermostat to open
>as
>early as possible when things warmed up.
>
>With the suggested modification, you lose the blocking function and
>you
>have a constant opening (of about .75 square inches) allowing water to
>bypass the radiator AT ALL TIMES. Not a good thing, sort of like
>having
>a pencil sized connection between your veins and arteries just
>downstream of your heart - your legs wouldn't like the circulation
>problems a bit! You're saving some money at the risk of overheating,
>and
>if you block the bypass, your "new" thermostat will be sloooow to
>open.
>Better to do it right the first time! Jarl de Boer
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>ROBERT G. HOWARD wrote:
>>
>> Hi Pat,
>> Moss may be giving him the correct info. The TD setup is unusual.
>> Dave Raymond, NEMGTR #96, wrote this, which was printed in the
>April,
>> 1990 issue of TSO:
>> "Most TCs and TDs are running around with the original thermostat,
>> either because of a lack of knowledge or the almost prohibitive cost
>of a
>> new one. One very effective solution to the problem that I have used
>is
>> as follows:
>> "Remove the thermostat housing, using a screwdriver, pry off the
>valve
>> that is at the top of the housing, and remove the remains of the old
>> thermostat. Break out the flat piece of metal with a hole in it hat
>the
>> stem of the old thermostat passed through. Clean up any burrs that
>> remain. Purchase a 160 or a 180 degree thermostat depending on
>season.
>> One that I use is for older Fords. The thermostat fits into the top
>of
>> the housing perfectly. Drill two 9/64" holes through the edge of the
>> thermostat and the flange of the housing using two 1/8 x 1/4
>brass
>> rivets inserted up from the bottom, back up with punch held in a
>vise
>> and peen over the end. Result: a neat installation that can be
>changed
>> over to a summer thermostat with very little difficulty, saving some
>> money and ensuring that with all other factors being equal, you'll
>have
>> an abundance of heat. A thermostat, properly working, is a very
>important
>> part of the machine-it insures faster warmup and maintains a
>constant
>> temperature in the engine.
>> Dave is a highly-regarded MG MD, and this tip sounds as though
>it's
>> just what your friend is looking for.
>> Bob
>>
>> On Tue, 25 Aug 1998 17:28:40 -0700 "ppp:pbailey" <pbailey@qnet.com>
>> writes:
>> >Thanks all for the Td info I passed it along to Bob,but now he has
>> >another problem(Yes.. I'm trying to get him to get a computer!!}It
>> >seems
>> >he has no thermostat and he ordered one from Moss but it doesn't
>fit
>> >He
>> >has some kind of housing with a siphon hose on it and Moss is
>telling
>> >him he has to buy the whole works for $85.Any help will make him
>happy
>> >We don't want him to get disgusted and sell it .
>> >Pat
>> >
>> >
>
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