And Fred,,,,,,,,,,,, because you asked for it,,,,,,,,, we bring you answers to
the "crack of doom" question. This is a LONG compilation of the thread that was
on this list a couple of months ago.
Have fun, good luck.
Larry Hoy
Denver, CO. USA
1969 MGB Roadster
1970 MGB Roadster
1987 Jaguar XJ6 VDP
"It's not how fast you go, it's how fast you go fast"
==========================================
Rick Jennings wrote:
>
> Can anyone explain what needs to be done to repair the crack. What is the
> fix to keep it from happening again once fixed?
What I did was to put a plate of steel behind the crack. I drilled
a half dozen holes in the doorskin on both sides of the crack, and
plug welded through them to attach the plate.
Then weld up the crack, also welding it to the plate in the process.
The welded up crack will hold, because the plate takes the
"design defect" stress off the area.
--
Trevor Boicey, Ottawa, Canada.
tboicey@brit.ca, http://www.brit.ca/~tboicey/
==============================================================
ick Jennings wrote:
> Can anyone explain what needs to be done to repair the crack. What is the
> fix to keep it from happening again once fixed? I know this has been
> discussed before but I
> never had an them need.
Hi Rick:
Trevor has a good fix. A rather intelligent sounding fellow made an astute
observation quite awhile back. He believed the crack of doom was caused by
missalignment of the doors. If you look at the striker plate on your B and
notice there is some significant wear where the door latches, then this
induced stress at the weakest point aka the crack of doom.
--
Bob Allen, Kansas City
PS: If you don't notice the abnormal wear, then the guy must have been an
idiot.
PSS: You're newsletter dues are overdue.
====================================================
---------------original message----------------
Can anyone explain what needs to be done to repair the crack. What is the
fix to keep it from happening again once fixed? I know this has been
discussed before but I
never had an them need.
TIA
Rick Jennings
-----
Rick
I repaired the crack on both doors of my 74 B. I opened up the crack to about
1/8" and clamped a small piece of metal behind the crack. Also drilled a small
hole at the bottom end of the crack to relieve stress.
I then welded (mig welder) the crack shut, also welding through to the backing
metal. I was able to grind the weld down flush and only needed some leveling
paste to smooth it all out.
Past post on the list indicate just welding the crack shut will not hold up.
Good Luck
===================================================================
I did similar to Trevor, but rivetted a steel "sandwich" over and behind
the crack. I used a piece of heavy sheet metal on the inside portion and a
piece of thin sheet metal on the exterior. Several holes were drilled
through the sandwich and rivets were added. Before doing this, I also
drilled a 1/8" hole at the base of the crack (to keep it from spreading).
I tapped the repair in a bit with a hammer and applied bondo (gasp!) to
smooth it over.
Purists may flame me, but I don't have easy access to a welder and this
method was recommended by one of our listers as reliable. I made the
repair about six months and 1,500 miles ago and haven't had any signs of
re-emergence.
One key point to remember is that you must fix the cause of the crack or it
will reappear. In my case, the vent frame was being pushed outward every
time the door was closed. I readjusted the entire vent assembly so that it
just starts to make contact with the windscreen frame when the door is
fully closed.
YMMV...
Scott McKorkle
1978 MGB
----------
> From: Trevor Boicey <tboicey@brit.ca>
> To: Rick Jennings <ahhclem@kcnet.com>
> Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Crack of Doom
> Date: Thursday, July 30, 1998 9:26 PM
>
> Rick Jennings wrote:
> >
> > Can anyone explain what needs to be done to repair the crack. What is
the
> > fix to keep it from happening again once fixed?
>
> What I did was to put a plate of steel behind the crack. I drilled
> a half dozen holes in the doorskin on both sides of the crack, and
> plug welded through them to attach the plate.
>
> Then weld up the crack, also welding it to the plate in the process.
>
> The welded up crack will hold, because the plate takes the
> "design defect" stress off the area.
>
> --
> Trevor Boicey, Ottawa, Canada.
> tboicey@brit.ca, http://www.brit.ca/~tboicey/
====================================================
Rick Jennings wrote:
>
> Can anyone explain what needs to be done to repair the crack. What is the
> fix to keep it from happening again once fixed? I know this has been
> discussed before but I
> never had an them need.
>
> TIA
> Rick Jennings
Second (third?) Trevor and Scott, also welded a small piece to extend
the flange that is formed by the top of the door being bent down into
the window aperture where it goes round the front runner/quarter-light
frame.
PaulH.
====================================================
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net]On
> Behalf Of miker15@juno.com
> Sent: Monday, September 28, 1998 5:26 PM
> To: FCheney@kinneyassoc.com
> Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: "Crack of Doom"
>
>
>
> On Mon, 28 Sep 1998 10:07:12 -0400 Fred Cheney <FCheney@kinneyassoc.com>
> writes:
> >I am the new owner of a 1972 "B". In reading the various catalogs I
> >have come across reference to cracks in the doors being called the
> >"crack of doom". My car exhibits cracks as described. My question
> >is:
> >can these cracks be repaired or must I replace the door skins.
> >Secondly, if they can be repaired where can I find detailed repair
> >guidelines?
>
> They can be repaired by welding a plate behind the crack - i looked for a
> post from a few months ago that detailed it very well but couldnt find it
> - anyone got it to hand??
>
> >
> >My second question is in regards to under-hood colors. Are the inner
> >fender wells to be painted in body color?
>
> Yes
>
> Lastly, what color are the air intakes meant to be? Mine are yellow but
> I have seen photos showing them black.
> >
> Do you mean the Air filter covers Fred? - if so, they should be black
>
> mike robson
> 69 roadster
> 70 BGT
> 53 Riley
>
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