Gotta real problem with some of this, no knock to you guys, everyone
has his way of doing things successfuly; no one way is the "only" way,
in my experience.
When one builds an engine, one uses the proper lubricants for each
application (cam, mains, pistons, etc). All this hype about special
lubes gets me. Hasn't anyone figured out that most of this stuff is
hype? Bought a cam from Isky; sent me the sticky moly grease, voided
the warranty if I didn't use it. Big deal! I was racing; no warranty!
The point is: there are plenty of lubes out there for the thinking
individual.
OK, presuming you used the right lubes to assemble it: yer at the
"start it up" point. Oil an' water innit, gas an' all that.
Crank it up! I know it's daunting but you built it! It's right or
it's not!! Crank it up and find out!!! When it starts, it's music! Go
for it, you'll love it!!!
Been there, dunnit: there's no sweeter music than the sound of an
engine that you built firing up for the fitst time.
CR
T
1
"Unger, Larry G" wrote:
>
> Gents,
>
> No mention of 'bedding in the cam'? The first minutes
> are critical to the life of the cam ... vary the rpm
> between 2200 and 2700 for the first 15 to 10 mins ...
> then, retorque the head etc.
>
> **********************************************************
> Safety Fast! ... larry.g.unger@lmco.com
> '61 MGA 1600 MkII
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Lawrie Alexander [mailto:Lawrie@britcars.com]
> Sent: Sunday, February 14, 1999 12:58 AM
> To: ccrobins; Gaetke
> Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: head gasket/break in questions
>
> Charley............
>
> Yup, you're gonna "gettit"...........:-)
>
> But only because you state that the car should be left overnight before the
> head nuts are re-torqued. I thought we covered this a few weeks back, but
> here goes again..............
>
> After the rebuild, the engine should be started and run till it reaches
> normal operating temperature. Then the head should be re-torqued and the
> valves re-adjusted. Then the car can be driven gently for 500 miles or so,
> at which point the oil and filter should be changed and the head torque and
> valve adjustment re-checked while the engine is warm. The only engines on
> which you re-torque when the engine is cold are those having aluminum heads.
>
> Lawrie
> British Sportscar Center
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ccrobins <ccrobins@ktc.com>
> To: Gaetke <gaetke@ix.netcom.com>
> Cc: mgs@autox.team.net <mgs@autox.team.net>
> Date: Saturday, February 13, 1999 7:35 PM
> Subject: Re: head gasket/break in questions
>
> >Hi Matt,
> >
> > Oh, Im gonna gettit for this one. Drive it mildly for a coupla
> >heundred miles. Park it overnite. Retourque the head nuts, etc. Drive
> >it conservatively, coupla vrooms, 1K more miles, no banzai!! Retighten
> >every thing and retorque the head nuts. Drivvit like the nut you are
> >(vrooommm!).
> >
> > If it hasn't blown up by now, it's probably good for ?00K miles. Have
> >fun!!!
> >
> > Charley (VROOMM) Robinson
> > '69 B VVRROOOOMMM!!!
> >
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