John,
In addition to what everyone else has said here let me toss in my $.02 here.
When installing bearing caps, turn the engine after tourquing each one. This
is not some magical make the car go fast thing, rather it is to catch
screwups. If you get a cap on wrong way around it will lock the engine. (ask
me how I know this)
Also if you go to the library look at a Chiltons or Motors manual they usually
have a section in the back on generic engine rebuilding, read it. As already
mentioned read the Haynes manual, and a Complete and Official if you have it.
If fact read that stuff several times till you know it and fully understand
it.
Pay attention to the small stuff (oil pump gaskets, tensioner gaskets etc)
Have fun!
Rick
In a message dated 2/19/99 5:55:49 PM Pacific Standard Time, johnf@ihot.com
writes:
> Listers,
>
> I'm in the process of assembling my engine, starting with my freshly
> machined block, and I was wondering what I should do to ensure success. I
> spent a tidy sum on the machine work, pistons, cam grind etc. and want to
> avoid rookie mistakes. I've caressed the exterior, re-valved the head and
> played with the dual carbs, but I'm still an engine-build virgin. When all
> the parts are in, how should it feel when I crank her by hand? Loose,
> tight or oh-my-gawd, I felt something pop.
>
> I am also in process of rebuilding the front suspension. I've pulled the
> front cross member out and removed all the suspension and steering parts.
> I'll have the cross member powder coated and install new bushings, hubs,
> barakes and rebuilt king pin assys. I have a Brit-tek catlog with front
> suspension rebuild kits that seem like a pretty good deal. I'm still
> pretty busy these days and am willing to spend the extra $ for the package.
> Any advice, is it a good one, should I look elsewhere or just spend the
> time to do it right myself because I can't trust anybody?
>
> And what about them composite leaf springs?
>
> Ramble, ramble, ramble and TIA to all.
>
> Happy Motoring,
>
> John Fagerlund
>
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