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Re: Engine Assy and the springs she sits on

To: Florrie & Allen Bachelder <bachldrs@swva.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Assy and the springs she sits on
From: Susan and John Roper <vscjohn@huntnet.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 11:09:08 -0600
John, it would take too much space to go through all of reassembly, but here
are some thoughts.  First set crank in the block with bearings dry.  Use
plastigauge to check all main bearing clearances at proper torque.  assuming
they are correct, remove caps, reassemble with assembly lube and check to see
that the crank spins freely.  Check end play.  If all is well go on and do the
same with the rods.  If not you have to consider line bore or crank that is not
straight.  Once past the botom end you need to check ring end gaps.  Once
satisfied there assemble rings to pistons and install in bores.  Use only
something like WD40 to lube the bores.  Keep everything very clean and always
cover engine when you are not working to avoid airborn grit.  Good luck.  John

Florrie & Allen Bachelder wrote:

> Listers,
>
> I'm in the process of assembling my engine, starting with my freshly
> machined block, and I was wondering what I should do to ensure success.  I
> spent a tidy sum on the machine work, pistons, cam grind etc. and want to
> avoid rookie mistakes.  I've caressed the exterior, re-valved the head and
> played with the dual carbs, but I'm still an engine-build virgin.  When all
> the parts are in, how should it feel when I crank her by hand?  Loose,
> tight or oh-my-gawd, I felt something pop.
>
> John Fagerlund
>
> John -
>
> I'll leave it to guys like Lawrie to give you the best advice.  Here's
> 2¢-worth from a guy who doesn't do this very often and is therefore a
> novice every time he tries:  Clean, Clean, Clean!  Keep everything as CLEAN
> as possible.   Read your Haynes manual - read the entire engine rebuild
> section well in advance of any work.  You know what all the parts look like
> - assemble it in your mind as you go though the instructions - away from
> the engine.  Read again and review each operation before you do it.  If
> something doesn't make sense, don't guess - get competent advice.  You've
> just seen a thread on oil pump gaskets.  Make sure the one you select looks
> correct on the block as well as on the pump.  Grease the gasket.
>
> BTW: Haynes does not mention the timing chain tensioner gasket.  I
> discovered it in the gasket set after the cover was on.  Needless to say,
> it all came apart again.
>
> Your freshly machined crank cradled in your new bearing shells will turn
> easily - but "loose" is a term that does not come to mind.  Neither does
> "tight".  All I can say is it's a sensual experience.  It's snug but oh how
> easily it turns!  Once pistons/rods are installed, the assembly has a bit
> more resistance - you'll hear/feel a lubricated "th-th-th-th-th" as the
> rings caress the freshly lubricated cylinder walls.  Any sounds more
> metallic or abrasive than this should be rectified before proceeding.
> Nothing will "pop".
>
> Don't throw anything away until you're done.  On my first rebuild, one
> night after installing the flywheel, I found a little "spring thing" on the
> floor.  Oh, that's from the old rear main seal, thought I.  Rumaging
> through the garbage I found the old rear main seal with the "spring thing"
> very much intact, thank you.  Sh*t!  You know what that meant - remove
> flywheel and endplate.  New endplate gaskets and rear main seal.  But ya
> gotta do it right!  Your new engine won't forgive you just because your
> were too tired or it was too much trouble to backtrack and fix the problem.
> If you live a million miles away from civilization as I do, you end up
> saving time and $ by having a spare gasket set.  (I  keep reading this
> recent thread about 56K modems - heck, I couldn't get on line 'til I found
> a modem that would hook up to two coffee cans and a string - that's how
> rural it is around here!).
>
>  But I digress.  Had I not found that old rear main seal in the garbage, I
> might have presumed wrong and ended up pulling the whole engine back out of
> the car to replace a $5-part.
>
> This is not rocket science.  What it requires is CARE.  Pay attention, be
> thoughtful. Don't compromise.  I am by nature a bit compulsive and that
> pays off big-time: double-check everything.   My first rebuild ran
> perfectly from the start and my second is about to turn over 44,000 miles
> in my daily driver.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Allen
>
> Allen H. Bachelder  =iii=<
> Sinking Creek Home for Wayward MGs
> New Castle, VA 24127
> USA
> 540/544-7333




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