>I know that the temperature control is hooked up properly, I did that when
replaced the console after the new wiring harness.
I am confident that you have hooked everything up properly, but.......... I
have found that there is a summer heater "setting" and a winter heater
"setting". It has been my experience that the "lever" that controls the
heater valve has less travel than the heater valve has. I "set" my cable
adjustment so in the summer the valve goes from completely shut to almost
all the way open; and in the winter it goes from all the way open to almost
shut. You might want to do a little investigation.
> I see two likelihoods, one is that the heater valve is restricting water
flow,
In my humble opinion the MGB heater valve is a piece of junk. You may be
correct, the valve may be restricting the flow. The valve is notorious for
leaking, and of course a leak can be disastrous (been there, done that). I
am working on a conversion idea as we speak.
> two is that the heater core is clogged and needs to be flushed.
Could be. Kinda cold to be back flushing the cooling system now.
> Would anybody care to venture a call as to which attack has the greater
probability of success?
Another item is the "vents" in the fire wall. Make sure all the rubber
grommets are in place, no random holes. I sealed the cold air vent doors
with self adhesive foam tape. Another nifty item is the magnetic vent inlet
seal available from the big suppliers.
If your car is properly sealed and the heater is working OK you'll stay
pretty warm in your B, good luck.
Larry Hoy http://home.cwix.com/~larryhoy@cwix.com/
Denver, CO USA
1970 Daily Driver
1967 Vintage Racer
1969 Undergoing V8 conversion
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