Eugene Balinski wrote:
>
> My '80B was apparently delivered without an oil cooler.
> I saw the oil cooler kit in the Moss sale catalog
> and and went for it. I just have a few questions for the
> groupbefore I install it.
>
> 1) Is a "10 row" oil cooler large enough, or should I return it
> and get a larger unit ? I noticed that both Moss and
> Victoria British sell larger units, and VB recommends their
> 10-row unit for "normal driving" and a larger units for
> heavier driving. For the record, I will be doing a bunch of
> stop and go driving in hot weather, as well as
> some highway jaunts.
>
Eugene, unless you live in the deep, deep south, you shouldn't need
anything larger than the 10-row cooler. My '70B with higher
compression, and resultant higher engine temps, runs fine with the 10 or
13 row cooler I have. I have driven my car during 90-100 degree
Fahrenheit days, and I have only run into minor hot running, never to
exceed about 1/8" past the middle point of the gauge. However, many
have questioned the absolute accuracy of the gauge, and I would be
hesitant to rely on it for true numbers. If the 13 row is not
significantly more than the 10 row, then it can't hurt. However, I
would recommend an oil cooler thermostat to help your oil warm up during
the colder days. Either that, or use a piece of cardboard in front of
it in the winter. Not quite as effective, but it helps.
I recommend Racer's Wholesale for the oil coolers. They have the same
cooler as the stock cooler in my MGB for around $99 and you can get
larger ones for slightly more.
> 2) Regarding the actual installation: Should I prime the
> oil cooler and the hoses with fresh oil ? I would not want the engine to
> be starving for oil while the hoses and cooler fill up for
> the first time.
>
Wouldn't hurt.
> 3) Recommended oil brand ? I understand that SAE 20W-50 is the grade.
> Should I use a "racing oil" as it is supposed to have more
> foam dispersants ? Valvoline ? Kendall ? Penzoil ??
>
I don't think you necessarily need the racing oils. I believe the use
of the foam dispersants is good for the dry sump engines, where you can
increase the likelihood of foaming, since the scavenge pump is pumping
the oil very quickly and may pump air. Someone correct me if I'm
wrong. Many eschew the Castrol brand. I use it. I like Mobil 1 as
well, and would be using it were it not for my car's tendency to mark
her territory. She tends to leave puddles of oil everywhere we go.
It's getting to be a pain. :)
You can spend more on the synthetic and will do just as good or better
than the dino oil. Many talk about the synthetics creating leaks of the
motor, but this was more of a characteristic of the original
synthetics. The petroleum industry reacted and change the formulations
to help reduce this. The advantages of the synthetics include better
viscosity properties (holds viscosity much better across the temp
range), and less volatility. The improved viscosity properties enable
you to use an oil with a smaller range. For example, instead of 20w50,
you might use 10w30, and since it holds the viscosity better at
temperature, you can go with the lighter 10w30 oil. You also should
look for an oil with the smallest range in viscosities (i.e. 10w30
(range 20) is more desirable than 20w50 (range 30)). Use of the lighter
oil will provide easier starting and I assume it lowers friction, but I
haven't seen any scientific relationships to support this, although
there likely are.
Make sure you change the oil every 3000 miles, and use a decent quality
filter. You'll do fine just fine as far as wear is concerned. Oh, and
don't rev your motor up while you are warming the engine up. I like to
keep the tach below 3500 until the engine starts to warm up to a
reasonable level. This practice alone will do much for your engine.
> 4) Slightly off subject - recommend brand for lithium grease for the
> chassis lube ??
>
Any of the good brands works fine. Most of the grease in the joints is
old, so any new grease is welcome. I don't think you use lithium
grease, though. The lithium greases that I know are very thin, and are
not viscous enough for the use on the suspension and drive shaft.
Anyone back me up here?
> Thanks for the help,
Don't mention it.
Jay
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