OK, in addition to my last comment on the clutch.
I would not recommend using a roller bearing, if you look at the geometry of
the release arm you will see that the bearing slides across the clutch as it
is released, a roller bearing will not stand up to that as long as a carbon
one.
You DO need to remove the engine, while it is possible to remove the gearbox
without removing the engine you cannot put it back in without serious risk
of damage to the clutch and input shaft. Since you have to remove the
radiator, take off all wires and hoses to the engine and release the engine
mounts and pull the engine forwards anyway it is quicker to pull the engine
and gearbox as a unit.
Besides that the gearbox is heavy and it is a safe bet you will drop it on
part of yourself (you can't use a jack as you have to twist it as it comes
out) and that hurts!
Cheers
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew B. Lundgren <lundgren@iname.com>
To: Alan Lott <lottala@mail.auburn.edu>; Mg List (E-mail)
<mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: 10 July 1999 23:16
Subject: RE: Clutch gone. (?)
>On Fri, 9 Jul 1999 22:07:00 -0500, Alan Lott wrote:
>
>>Sounds like your throwout bearing is gone. Very common. Borg and beck ONLY
>>if youre going back to "stock" on the clutch.
>
>For the extra cost it seems worth it, if it is better. Thanks.
>
>>My own opinion is that either
>>throwout bearing (ablative or roller) is ok, but many people swear by the
>>roller-bearing throwout.
>
>I don't know what you mean by the above, can you explain more?
>
>>Don't forget to replace the pilot bushing while
>>you're in there doing the clutch. I pulled the engine and transmission as
a
>>unit the last time I did it, but you can just remove the transmission if
>>you'd like. Good luck.
>
>Please tell me more about removing just the transmission. There are
>far fewer things to pull off going that route. My books both indicate
>that the engine must be pulled.
>
>Andrew Lundgren
>Lundgren@iname.com
>http://www.itwest.net/~lundgren
|