I feel that because the rear wheel cylinder piston backs are in contact with
each other during bleeding, and because there is only a narrow chamfer
around the back of each piston, the 'cavity' so formed is no more likely to
retain an air bubble than the pipe. Unlike a caliper which always has a
significant cavity behind the piston.
Several people have stated that, after using MityVac, EeziBleed, and pedal
pumping and still having spongy pedals, they now use gravity bleeding and
stand by the M/C with a can of brake fluid in one hand and a can of cold
beer in the other to much better effect. As I have had similar problems on
both the roadster and the V8 in the past, and have to replace the clutch
hydraulics and the brake M/C on the V8 soon, I shall try the gravity/beer
method with interest.
Does anyone know which brand of beer is best? Old Speckled Hen, perhaps?
PaulH.
http://freespace.virgin.net/paul.hunt1/
-----Original Message-----
From: Max Heim <mvheim@studiolimage.com>
To: 'MGS@autox.team.net' <MGS@autox.team.net>
Date: 19 July 1999 20:45
Subject: Re: spongy pedal
>You are completely right about the geometry contributing to the problem.
>I guess the consensus is to just keep at it and it will eventually bleed
>out.
>
>Drew Stieber had this to say:
>
>>I seem to remember that you cant get all of the air out of the rear
>>cylinders due to the geometry. I dont rememeber but isnt the bleed screw
on
>>the bottom while the hose is on the top? This would always leave a little
>>air in the system . I seem to remember this the last time I rebuilt a
rear
>>cylinder, but I know I eventuallly got it to work....
>>
>>Just a thought....
>>
>>Drew
>>
>
>
>--
>
>Max Heim
>'66 MGB GHN3L76149
>Runs great,
>looks particularly bad since some SUV clown backed into it.
>If you're near Mountain View, CA,
>it's the red one with the silver bootlid.
>
>
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