Thanks, Kelvin,
for your information about the rebuilt engine. I can't check the matching
of the timing marks, though, because my car is in the shop right now. I
was running over something on the Freeway with 75 mph, too fast to see
what it was. Luckily the thing didn't fly upwards and smashed my
windscreen (and me...) but it tore off my front number plate and hit the
bottom pretty hard. I brought the car to the shop to check if everything
underneath is still like it has to be.
Thanks again
Gauloise
>Gauloise:
>
> Welcome to the list.
>
> In answer to your question, it is pretty typical for a rebuilt
>engine to not have an ID plate. Many machine shops boil the engine block
>which destroys the aluminium tag. Something to watch out for when
>rebuilding an engine.
>
> I ran into the dark side of this with an original Mini Cooper S. It
>is tough to prove that the engine is real without the plate. Luckily the
>guy who bought the car knew enough to fathom the difference in block height.
>
> On an MGB the internals dictate what type of engine it is. The
>blocks from 65-80 are relatively interchangable (yeah, yeah, I know there
>are differences in oil passage/fuel pump etc.)
>
> If the engine runs well, don't worry. Make sure that the timing
>marks on the front pulley match up to the correct marks on the timing cover,
>that's about the main problem that people run into with mix-n-match
>components.
>
>Kelvin.
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