This is the method that companys like Midas Muffler and others like them use to
get it done fast, using a pump to push it all back to the master cylinder.
I'm surprised you are having trouble with the Clutch. This usually bleeds
Many people have trouble bleeding brakes on later model MG's due to the design
of the Fluid Reservoir. It has two compartments seperated at the near very top
by only about a quarter inch spacing. You end up filling the rear compartment
just below the cap and think all is well --- ha ha.
The rear compartment feeds the front brakes, but you just can't seem to bleed
the rear brakes......
An 18 year old kid down the street just bought an MG to restore as his only
driver (yes - some younger people are starting to gain interest in these cars
instead of Mustangs). As I drove buy one day I asked If he had it going yet, and
he said he spent 3 days trying to get the brakes working. Because I deal with
too many years of these MG's, I wasn't sure what brake componants were under the
bonnet and so I said " I think I know your problem, but pop up the bonnet so I
can make sure what Master Cylinder and Reservoir you have".
Sure enough, he had the dual reservoir and his car was parked facing up in an
uphill driveway... I showed him there wasn't much fluid getting into the
forward compartment and told him to roll the car back down level into the street
and try again. He called me up the next day and said "Thanks -- that was it"..
You can bleed any brake or hydraulic clutch system as long as the person
pressing the pedals does so slowly - even without a hose/tubing going into a
bottle as long as you just BARELY open the bleeder screw as they are SLOWLY
pressing the pedal through its reaches. Opening the bleeder screw too much
causes air back into the system.
I installed a new clutch line to the '80 MGB tonight and asked my son to help me
bleed it. I opened the blleder screw on the slave and told him to pump the
pedal SLOWLY.. Out came some fluid, then it spit fluid and air into my face,
then it looked like someone had shaken a can of coke, b u t then it started to
run clear and I closed the bleeder screw. I don't think it too more than 2
minutes. The brake WILL take longer. But if its an MG get it level....
=> MGB Roadster 1969 Chrome Bumper
=> MGB Roadster 1980 Rubber Bumper
=> Land Rover 1965 Series IIA
=> Land Rover 1959 Series II
Paul Hunt wrote:
> Changed all my clutch hydraulics and brake m/c on the V8 yesterday, so had
> the opportunity to try something I have been wondering about for a while but
> haven't seen mentioned anywhere. It worked a treat so I pass it on.
> After hearing many tales of woe about clutch bleeding (worse than the brakes
> and they are bad enough) I wondered what would happen if I reverse-bled it
> i.e. from the slave up to the M/C. In fact, what about *filling* it from
> the slave? I assembled everything dry i.e. no bench bleeding but didn't
> mount the slave, just left it hanging down from the flex. Got my Gunsons
> Easibleed and removed the cap that normally goes on top of the M/C, fitted a
> length of larger bore tubing between the end of the piece I had removed the
> cap from and the slave bleed nipple, which I opened half a turn. Gingerly
> connected the Gunsons up to the spare that only had 10psi in it, checked
> that fluid wasn't spurting everywhere, then watched and listened at the M/C
> with the cap off. After a few seconds there was a slight gurgling, then
> clear golden fluid rose gracefully up towards the neck. Released the
> Gunsons from the spare tyre, tightened up the bleed nipple, and mounted the
> slave to the bell-housing. Before starting I had measured the travel at the
> slave while the Navigator pumped the pedal (a fraction less than 1/2", I
> reckon) then measured again after fitting (spot on 1/2" this time).
> Flushed (!) with success I wondered if it would work for the brakes too - it
> filled the M/C but there was still air in the system, even after two
> sessions with the Gunsons conventionally on the M/C. Eventually I used a
> combination of Gunsons and the Navigator standing on the pedal while I
> snapped the bleed nipples open and shut - got a lot more air out and now
> have a hard pedal.
> Still, it was very successful for the clutch. Total bleeding time about
> five minutes, and full clutch travel first time. In hindsight, I needn't
> even have removed the cap off the Gunsons tube.
> (or if that URL doesn't work try )