Hi, Derek,
What's the best way
> (i.e., what book would you recommend?) to pick up a lot of the basic
> knowledge / troubleshooting / general ledgerdemain?
Use the Haynes manula and get your hands dirty :-) Actually, Lindsay
Porter's book is quite good and you could browse libraries for
automotive 'how to' books. Then again, there's no substitute for
experience and you have to try very hard to break an LBC, even though it
will break for you with minimal effort on your part.
First, when I put the key to
> the start position (that is, the engine doesn't need to be on), there's a
> knock about about maybe 8 Hz from the right rear of the car. It seems to
> happen about 75% of the time, and I don't think it's related to how full the
> gas tank is.
This is the fuel pump, which should stop knocking when the carbs are
full.
My guess is faulty fuel pump - is this a standard sound for a
> failed pump (this is the kind of general troubleshooting info I was
> referring to in the previous paragraph)?
To find out if the pump is faulty, clamp the rubber feed pipe or take it
off and plug it, tight ( preferably at the pump end but in the engine
bay will do). If the pump then stops after a short time, it's OK and the
fault is with the carbs. If it doiesn't stop, it's faulty and needs
fixing.
Second, over anything bigger than a
> smallish bump, I get a sort of metallic crunching from the right rear. This
> one I assume is either a spring or a shock - easy to replace? hard?
Could be a spring or shock but it could also be something in the way of
the axle as it moves, a duff spring bush or a loose mounting. Getting
this lot apart is esay enough mechanically but stuck fastenings are the
usual problem. Penetrating fluid and patience are the answer.
Incidentally, six point sockets-as opposed to the usual 12 point-give
old hexagon fittings the best chance of not losing their corners.
>
Good luck,
Dave Hill
'72 S.T. BGT
York UK
>
|