I had the tite drum fit scenario on my Bugeye. If I recall some of
it was cured by centering the shoe assy, the rest of it I drove
with and checked wheel temp often to be safe. My guess is if you
can rotate wheel by hand a little rubbing won't hurt. Don't go on
a long hiway trip till all's well.
Wire color codes are in the wiring diagram. How you guys can keep
a LBC running without the wiring diagram and a multimeter is
beyond me. My many hats off to you.
OTW, with 2 wires find the live wire by turning on the ignition -
a live wire never goes straight to ground, (except when its the
ground side of a live side connected device). Conversely, check
for continuity to ground for both disconnected wires. If you get
continuity on both, start isolating the live side of the
electrics - battery, fuses, maybe fuel gauge. Check with a home
made continuity meter till u find one of the two wires continuous
with ground.
Now for the terminals, they may be marked (no help if u don't have
a wiring diagram), or you may find one of them continuous to
ground (usually one of the terminals is grounded by a tank
mounting screw/nut/stud) - and if there is no ground terminal,
polarity may not matter - but then its your risk, remember we are
on, in and around a gas tank. My guess is with only one wire its
gotto go to to the insulated (live) terminal.
This post is to get u diagnosing and buy a manual. The simple one
time solution is wait for a lister with the color code/connection
answer. Watch out though, the color codes, terminal markings can
be different between models.
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Spenceley <spenceley@isn.net>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: April 27, 2000 7:26 AM
Subject: 69 mgb brakes and fuel sender/retry
> I purchased a '69 MGB this past October, the car had no fluid in
the
> brake
> lines. On removing the rear wheel drums the drivers side was
well
> fouled
> with a greasy black build-up. I thought this would be either
rear axel
> fluid
> or brake fluid. The wheel cylinder on that side was leaking, I
suppose
> so
> much so that the entire system drained via this leak. I bought
> replacement
> shoes and installed them. When I tried to put the drums back on
I found
> this
> to be quite difficult as they wouldn't slide on easily as past
> experience with
> other makes of autos. I used a rubber hammer to finally get
them
> seated,
> the wheels now turn with a slight drag and the adjusters are
fully
> disengaged.
> Is this normal or are the shoes shod with a linings that are too
thick.
>
> A second question. The fuel tank on my car is of the early
pre'66 type.
> It was
> leaking fuel from the sender unit when I put the car away back
in
> October.
> At that time I drained the tank and removed the sender. I have
since
> reinstalled
> the sender but don't remember where to attach the ground wire,
either to
> one
> of the screws where the unit attachs to the tank or to one of
the
> screws of the rectangular part in the centrof the sender.
> The car is still on jack stands having other things attended to
,but I
> can't
> wait to get her on the road for the first time, hopefully very
soon.
> TIA for your help. Chris, in PEI Canada
>
>
>
|