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Re: brake woes

To: "mgs" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: brake woes
From: "Dave Wood" <djw69@idt.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 17:34:34 -0700
Unless the rotor is scored badly or warped, leave them on, it won't hurt
anything.  I've got 100,000 miles on one of my original rotors that has a
grove in it from the 1st time I put new pads on it.  Metallic or organic
pads don't make a lot of difference on street cars IMO, so pick the least
expensive.  Try your local auto parts store and they may just have pads with
squealers on them.  I don't recall finding them for my MG, but it's been a
few years.  It's been my experience with all cars that I don't hear them
squeak anyway, I just hear the grind when it's too late, then you have to
replace the rotors if they can't be turned within specs.  My high pitch
hearing is suspect as I shot trap for a number of years without ear
protection.  I have also developed wife deafness to a fine art but that's a
different story.  The answer to the pad problem is to check the condition of
your brake pads every year or so.  The front pads can be inspected without
removing them when you top up you shocks (you do that don't you)?  If the
thickness of the pads appears to be getting too thin, pull the pads out
while the tire if off.  The rear brakes need to be adjusted once or twice a
year depending on how many miles you put on them and that's a good time to
pull off the drums and check how thick you shoes are.  When they get to be
1/16 to 1/8 of an inch thick think about replacing them.  Don't just check
one side because it will always be the one with the least wear.  You will be
amazed at how much better your car stops after adjusting the rear brakes.
Just be glad that you can do that kind of job yourself.  My sister-in-law
went to the local tire shop to see about getting her brakes fixed as they
were squealing and they quoted her over $400.  This is for a 90 Olds with
drums on the rear, what a rip.  So I guess I'll be doing her brakes this
weekend.

Dave 72 B


----- Original Message -----
From: "T. Keith Vezina" <tkvezina@home.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 27, 2000 3:54 PM
Subject: Re: brake woes


The frustrating thing is that I replaced both rotors when I did a brake job
just 10K miles ago.  If the right outside pad had not lost it's friction
material, I should have been able to get another 30-40K miles on these pads
and would not have scarred the rotor.  I did re-pack the bearings while I
had it off and I will do the other side tomorrow.

BTW, does anyone make pads for B's with wear indicators on them?  If my old
ones would have had them, I think I would have caught the problem before it
damaged the rotor.

Also, what's the consensus out there, organic or semi-metallic?


----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Robinson" <jesserobinson2@hotmail.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2000 11:36 AM
Subject: Re: brake woes


> Keith,
>
> You have to buy new rotors.  I read the same thing in my manual, and I
tried
> to get mine ground.  My Trak Auto said it was too small too, but the guy
> tried anyway.  It really screwed up the rotor!  It starts to wobble on the
> machine and they could not get a clean cut.  Unless you know someone with
a
> machine your @*&! outta luck.  Anyway I hear the new rotors are made with
a
> different material that works better with the pads.  Trust me, I know your
> fustration but new pads and rotors are the way to go.  It looks so pretty
> too.  How are your calipers?  And while your at it, when it the last time
> you repacked your wheel bearings....
>
> Good Luck,
> Jesse
> 1970 MGB
>
>
> >From: "T. Keith Vezina" <tkvezina@home.com>
> >Reply-To: "T. Keith Vezina" <tkvezina@home.com>
> >To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
> >Subject: brake woes
> >Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 20:38:46 -0500
> >
> >It seems that I lost the friction material off of one of my front brake
> >pads
> >and it scarred the rotor.  I took the rotor to AutoZone to be turned, but
> >they refused to because "their computer" said the min. thickness should
be
> >0.341".  I returned with my shop manual to show the manager that the
> >thickness of a new rotor is 0.34" and minimum is 0.30".  He said that is
> >obviously an error in the computer, but still would not turn them because
> >of
> >the liability!  (Of course, a new rotor from them is "unavailable".)
> >
> >If it wasn't for lawyers, we wouldn't need lawyers!!
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________________________
>
>




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