I once fixed an ignition problem with a gallon of gasoline in the
tank. Not one of my finest hours. For spark I always pull a plug
and check for spark with it grounded to the block. Free, quick and easy.
Bill
At 08:52 PM 10/30/00 +0000, paul.hunt1@virgin.net wrote:
>I would be *very* suspicious if any car of mine ran fine one day, would not
>start the next and needed all the parts you describe.
>
>The white/black wire should have 12v on it when the points are open and 0v
>(ground) when they are closed. At least by seeing 12v you know the ignition
>is getting through the coil, maybe it is just not getting to the points.
>The wire can fracture inside the insulation inside the distributor body
>because the vacuum advance twists the plate and flexes the wire. Is this a
>25D (spade terminal on body) or 45D (black wire goes through distributor
>body), BTW? Connecting a ground to the white/black would cause the warning
>light to dim slightly (the coil takes a lot of current) and cause the tach
>to flick (it is voltage pulse operated). If the points *are* doing what
>they are supposed to position the king lead near the block and try flicking
>the points to make a spark (watch your fingers). If that's OK check you
>have the right plug lead order 1 3 4 2 anti-clockwise.
>
>Usually if the points, condenser and wires are assembled incorrectly the
>result is a permanent ground on the white/black.
>
>PaulH.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: William Killeffer <wtkilleffer@tn.freei.net>
>To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, October 30, 2000 3:38 AM
>Subject: ignition problem
>
>
> > Hello listers,
> > A little background: I was adjusting the idle speed and mixture on my 74 B
> > when I finally got it right. I shut the motor off and returned the next
>day,
> > and the car would not start.
> > Since then, I determined that the ignition was at fault, and replaced the
> > coil, points, condensor, rotor and terminal lead with new parts. The cap
>and
> > wires were nearly new when I bought the car in June. I also replaced the
>old
> > ground wire with a new wire because the cloth on the old had split in
> > several places. This installation seems secure. However, none of these new
> > parts improved the situation.
> > I then proceeded as though this was a wiring fault and enlisted a friend
>to
> > help with some tests. The battery is fully charged. We used a multimeter
>to
> > test the white/black wire that plugs into the distributor and it is
>reading
> > 12 volts. However, the points do not spark when the ignition is on and we
> > used a screwdriver to open and close them.
> > We even went and put all the old parts in just to make sure the new parts
> > were not at fault. BTW, the new parts are Sorenson brand purchased at the
> > local Advance Auto Parts. Still no spark at the points, and the
>white/black
> > wire connection seemed secure on its new terminal.
> > Strangely, even though no spark was present, sometimes the ignition
>warning
> > light would dim slightly and the tach would jump in response to something
>my
> > friend would do under the hood.
> > He and I plan to do more work tomorrow, though we're not sure how to
> > proceed. Is this a problem that electronic ignition would cure? I have
> > between 4 and 6 months to get this car roadworthy in time for my wedding.
> > Thanks for the help,
> >
> > William Killeffer
> > 1974 MGB that doesn't run, making its brake light problem a non-issue for
> > now
> >
> >
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