In my experience the real trouble spots are the rear spring bolts on the
shackles and the screws that hold the doors onto the hinges (num 3 or 4
phillips)
for the shackles/ubolts, nothing beats an oxy-acetelene torch, and for the
doors, a phillips screwdriver with flat spots on the shaft for visegrips
usually works, otherwise torch/saw those as well. A hacksaw can usually get to
anything that is being stubborn, but the torches will make the work much
faster/easier. Then again, if the gas tank is in the car, you might not want
to be torching the shackes and ubolts.
--
James Nazarian Jr
71 MGB roadster
71 MGBGT (the one that is supposed to be a v8)
01 Impreza 2.5RS
A complex system that does not work is invariably found to have
evolved from a simpler system that worked just fine.
>
> "Craig D. Niederst" wrote:
>
> > I will be stripping some parts off a '68 MGB destined for the crusher this
> > week. My last minute e-mail and offer of $50 saved the car and had it set
> > aside for my picking. It has a good aluminum bonnet, boot lid, bumpers,
> > tranny, rear axle with splines and wires, front hubs with splines and wires,
> > roll bar, doors and other smaller useful items. I am intending on pulling
> > all of the above parts, but since the car is in a remote location, I have to
> > do this with all hand tools. Most of the items will be simple, but the
> > tranny and rear axle maybe troublesome. I am bringing a jack and jackstands
> > just in case, but was wondering if there is a good way to remove these
> > items? Are removing the U-joints something that can be done easily, in the
> > field? I have dropped the rear axle on my '71 before in the garage, but
> > never disconnected it from the driveshaft. The engine is out of the car, but
> > the tranny is still in place. I assume that the mounts here just unbolt?
> > Besides for the standard sockets and other hand tools, anything else I will
> > need to pull these items? TIA.
> >
> > Craig
> > '71 B
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