In a message dated 08/17/2001 11:17:18 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
pilot@ccc-cable.net writes:
> I currently have the car up on jacks while I rebuilt front end and carb. I
> have cleaned the underneath multiple times while working on it so the brake
> lines are very clean front and back. I have suspected an air leak in line
> to rear brakes or a pinched line. Blew air through rear line with bleeders
> open one at a time. Fluid blew through line just fine.
>
> My rear lines are mounted to side of rear axles not on top so they are easy
> to inspect. No pinches to be found anywhere from master cylinder to rear
> wheel cylinders. Also brake lines are completely dry. No sign of a leak
>
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Wow! I am at a loss to explain your problem, but let's go one step at a
time. It sounds like you have already done everything to check what I would
check, but over a year's time, something could get lost.
Chances are the rear wheel cylinders are the problem, but you said you
replaced them with new. Otherwise, I would suspect the new master cyl.
Step 1 - Did you properly adjust the rear shoes before bleeding? If the
shoes aren't near the drums, no amount of bleeding will make the rear brakes
work.
Step 2 - If yes, remove the bleed screw entirely from the wheel cylinder.
Press the pedal. If you get brake fluid out of the wheel cylinder, the bleed
screw is clogged. Replace it. If no brake fluid proceed below.
Step 3 - Remove the brake line from the wheel cylinder and press the pedal.
If you get brake fluid, the problem is the new wheel cylinder. If no brake
fluid proceed below.
Step 4 - Follow the brake line back to the next junction. (I have a Midget,
so in my car it would be the T joint after the flex line. Dunno about a B,
but find the next line connector.) Disconnect it and press the pedal. If
fluid comes out, the problem is THAT line or T connector. If no brake fluid
proceed below.
Step 5 - Continue moving back the brake line (toward the master cyl.) and
disconnecting each joint, until you get brake fluid flowing freely when you
press the pedal.
If everything in Step 1 & 2 was OK, then I would say the master cylinder is
bad. New master cylinders can be bad. Remove it, wrap a rag around it and
put it in a vise. Bench bleed it and see if fluid comes out both holes. To
be absolutely sure it is good, send it to White Post Restorations for
re-sleeving. It is expensive, but you can be sure it will be right.
I hope you find the problem. Keep us posted.
Allen Hefner
Philly Region SCCA Rally Steward
'77 Midget
'92 Mitsubishi Expo LRV Sport
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