Hi Joe,
The cars seem to run the same with or without that heater connected.
Why not just leave it disconnected. That cable likes to melt or gets very
brittle as it sits on the valve cover anyway, so what the heck. It may
help in very cold climates but who drives them when its that cold anyway.
I would certainly call Moss about that gasket problem. That is a pain
in the arse to replace again. I have seen a metal adapter (gasket) used in
that area that seems to last forever if it doesn't weld itself to one of
your pipes.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Garner, Joseph P. <JPGarner@UCDavis.Edu>
To: MG list (E-mail) <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2001 2:00 AM
Subject: argh! moss gasket lottery.
> Actually whilst we're on the subject, i discovered a mysterious white
> plastic part between my carb and the manifold, unmentioned in haynes or
> leyland service manuals. inside, and looped around the mixture pasageway
is
> what looks like an induction heater coil to me, and lo and behold there
it
> is on the circuit diagram, and a very differently shaped part is in it's
> place in the moss catalog (but still labelled as induction heater). Here's
> my question. the part has two spade terminals, the upper was connected to
> the +12V line, the lower to the induction coil. The other end of the coil
> would have been grounded against the carb if it wasn't for the arse of a
> gasket job that someone had made prior. my multimeter swears blind that
the
> upper terminal is not even remotely connected (i.e. not even by a big old
> resistor) to the lower terminal, so it appears that as wired the coil is
> disconnected at both ends. if i ground one end of the coil and connect the
> other (i.e. by using the spade connector tab which the +12V line was NOT
> originally wired to) it pulls way too much current and would definately
blow
> the fuse, so that can't be right either). any ideas? experience?
///
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