Thanks for all the responses! They have helped me a
lot. Currently I think I've solved the problem with
the handbrake levers within the brake-drum. (I've
replaced the very old (and worn) levers by new ones
and after adjusting the brakes again it was possible
to lock both rear wheels with the handbrake and
footbrake)
Unfortunately it turned out that the brake shoes do
not always return completely after pulling and
releasing the handbrake. (They do after applying the
footbrake) After reading all the "lubricating" tips
I've removed the handbrake cable completely and found
out that this was in a bad state. (Probably not
lubricated for years, the grease nipple was missing
too!) I expect this to be the reason that the shoes
are not always returning into their position.
Does anybody knows whether the cable that is stated
in the Moss catalog is complete? ('63 MGB with banjo
axle)
Happy and safe driving!,
Menno
The Netherlands
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles & Peggy Robinson" <ccrobins@ktc.com>
To: <paul.hunt1@virgin.net>
Cc: <Menno.Meijer@ict.nl>; "Max Heim" <mvheim@attbi.com>; "MG List"
<mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2002 6:42 PM
Subject: Re: Handbrake problem...
>
>
> Paul, you must not have anything else to do. ;^)
>
> Cheers,
>
> CR
>
> paul.hunt1@virgin.net wrote:
>
> > BL handbrakes were always dodgy if not given regular and comprehensive
> > cleaning and lubrication. At each 3k service I completely dismantle the
> > shoes and the actuation levers from the backplates and cables. With the
> > cables off you can get plenty of free movement on the levers on the diff
> > casing, make sure these are free and oil the pivots. Also make sure the
> > cable at the handbrake end and the handbrake itself are free. If the
> cable
> > sheath has a grease nipple pump some in and work the cable back and fore
> to
> > distribute it, in any case make sure the cable is not stiff or catching
> in
> > the sheath. Check the slave pistons move back and fore and there is no
> > fluid inside the rubber boot. Ensure the pivot on each actuation lever
> is
> > clean and free, work a little grease in to it and wipe off any excess.
> > Screw the adjusters all the way in and remove, clean and grease the
> wedges
> > and adjuster screw. Replace the screw, screw it all the way out the
back
> of
> > the backplate (minimum adjustment) then apply more grease to the threads
> > that are in the open on the back (so when you screw the adjuster back in
> a
> > ring of grease builds up protecting the threads from water ingress).
> Apply
> > a thin smear of grease to every metal to metal contact point of shoes,
> > actuators and backplates (you can see the rub marks). You don't want
> great
> > gobs of it that will get on the drums and friction material, just a thin
> > smear. Reassemble the shoes observing the correct orientation (the
> 'empty'
> > portion of each shoe on both sides is its leading edge) and spring
> fitment
> > and reconnect the cables. Screw in the adjusters until the shoes just
> rub
> > on the drums, at this point I pump the brakes and pull on the handbrake
a
> > couple of times then strike the drums with a mallet to ensure the shoes
> are
> > centralised. Experience will tell you how much to pull up your
> adjusters,
> > after a short run they should be barely warm and definitely not hot.
For
> > example my V8 has to have the adjusters one flat looser than the
roadster
> or
> > they overheat. After all that, assuming sound friction material and
> drums,
> > you should be able to lock both rears with the handbrake on a roadster,
> > possibly not with a GT.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Menno Meijer" <menno.meijer@ict.nl>
> > To: "Max Heim" <mvheim@attbi.com>; "MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Friday, March 01, 2002 7:59 PM
> > Subject: Re: Handbrake problem...
> >
> > > Thanks a lot for the quick responses... Indeed I forgot to mention
that
> > I've
> > > already tried to adjust the "adjusting screw" I've set this screw to
> the
> > > position in which the shoe just touches the drum on some locations.
> (You
> > can
> > > hear it but hardly feel friction) After this adjustment I've pressed
> the
> > > footbrake a couple of times in order to let the shoes "set" themselves
> > into
> > > the correct position. After this I've re-adjusted the screw again.
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